Vratsa is Bulgaria's main limestone climbing area: compact grey limestone walls up to about 400 m high rise directly above the town of Vratsa in the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park, around 110 km north of Sofia. The multipitch climbing is concentrated in and around the Vratsata gorge, the narrow pass of the Leva river just above the town, where several walls start straight from the road. Most long routes, including those on the 350 to 400 m Central Wall, are traditional or mixed and need nuts and cams, so only a few fully bolted multipitch lines exist. Reach Vratsa by car from Sofia in 1.5 to 2 hours, or by train to Mezdra and bus, and stay in town or at the Alpine House hut in the gorge. Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) are the best seasons; summer is hot, and horned vipers are about.
GuidebookVratsa Climbing Guide (Bulgaria), Nikolay Petkov (2020, Ever Guide Ltd). Buy from climbing-guide.eu. The route pages here are aggregated by AI from public sources; climb with the guidebook.
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Vratsata gorge of the Leva, just south of Vratsa · 450 m
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Bulgaria · Vratsa
A popular link-up of three slabs on the Bezengi wall in the Vratsata gorge, a few minutes above the road. Five pitches of slab and corner climbing on compact, very frictional limestone, with the 6a cruxes on the slabs of pitches 3 and 5. An optional 30 m grade III pitch, not documented as bolted and with a peg belay, leads to the top if you do not abseil.
6aVI+5.10a6aVI+5.10a5 pitches150 m
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