Sport multipitch · Europe, Morocco and Turkey
Long routes.
Just quickdraws.
An atlas of fully bolted multipitch climbs, each one checked against published topos, with the approach, pitches, descent and best season.
Fully bolted
Every pitch and every belay is protected by fixed bolts. Routes that need a rack of cams or nuts are left out.
Four pitches or more
Long enough to fill a day and to need a plan for the descent, from four-pitch outings to walls of 500 m.
Hardest pitch 4b to 7a
Graded by the hardest pitch on the route, so a team can judge at a glance whether it is within reach.
- Routes
- 215
- Countries
- 11
- Climbing areas
- 77
- Pitches
- 1,634
- Kilometres of rock
- 48.5
Conditions
In season now
Every route lists the months it is usually climbed. Filter the atlas by month to see what is in condition.
Regions
Pick a region
Three stars
The classics
Croatia · Omiš
Rambo
Omiš's signature moderate: long, slabby pitches on knobbly grey limestone with big views over the Cetina mouth and the Adriatic. The crux is a short crack on the final pitch.
6a6 pitches230 m
France · Ailefroide
Palavar-les-Flots
Ailefroide's best-known easy long route: a consistent run of 4th-grade slab and pillar climbing with two harder steps (5b+ on L4, a 5c friction move on L8). It is very popular, so start early.
5c12 pitches310 m
Switzerland · Gastlosen
Salü Jan
One of the busiest routes in the Gastlosen: homogeneous, technical climbing on beautiful fluted slabs (cannelures) that dry fast. The top third is broken by grassy ledges.
6a12 pitches380 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Wings for Life
The first route on the wall (Odermatt and Keller, 2008), climbing a long, exposed line on sharp, grippy rock right of the huge roof. The lower pitches are easy for the grade. The two 6a cruxes are a short odd corner over a small roof and a traverse high up, and they come with big exposure. Pitches are short, so you can link them with long draws.
6a11 pitches250 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Rita
This is the archetypal long, easy Arco slab, first climbed in 1971. It wanders up the lower bands and then improves into a superb water-worn chimney system in the upper half. It is very polished and very busy, so start early. Original grade 6- UIAA per bergsteigen.com; gulliver gives 5c max.
5c16 pitches400 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Espolón del Adamelo
This is the gentlest way to sample Riglos. Polished pockets and two bulging 'panzas' lead to a 6a crux that can be pulled through on the bolts (A0). The upper spur is easy, and the Pisón towers loom close by.
6a7 pitches175 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Tiwira
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
France · Calanques
Armata Calanca
The big modern classic of the Calanques: eleven pitches in three tiers from the foot of the Candelle plinth to the summit, sustained in the sixth grade on grey water-pocketed limestone above the sea. Two walking ledges split the day and offer escapes. The eighth pitch, a 6b+ diagonal along a flake, is the one people remember.
6c11 pitches320 m
Method
How the atlas is made
Sources
Compiled from published sources and cross-checked
Each route is built from topos, guidebooks and trip reports. Where sources disagree on pitches, grades or length, the route page says so.
Bolting
Bolting confidence and cautions are stated on every route
Every route carries a bolting confidence rating, and any spaced bolts, old gear or loose rock is flagged before you read further.
Reports
Reader reports are dated and reviewed
Climbers can report what they found on a route. Reports are checked before they appear and always show the date of the ascent.