Oujdad (above the springs) · Taghia · Morocco
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
The easiest bolted line at Taghia: three steep 5c walls linked by two long, easy garden pitches. Goes into shade around midday in April.
Bolted and only 5c, but with about seven bolts per 45–50 m pitch, admittedly poorly placed bolts, unlinked belays and loose rock reported in 2024.
The route
Five pitches on the lower west flank of Oujdad, directly above the Taghia springs: three fairly vertical 5c walls separated by two long, easy pitches across vegetated ledges. Since 2016 it has been the easiest bolted route at Taghia. It is not a clip-up: the hard pitches have about seven bolts in 45 to 50 m, the openers' page admits the bolts are not always well placed, and a 2024 party found the rock very loose in places. Expect an adventurous feel for the grade, with views down onto the Paroi des Sources and the village.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 45 m | 7 bolts | A fairly vertical start leads to a belay just below the big grassy ledge. Pass a tree on its right a few metres before the belay. |
| P2 | 3b | 50 m | 1 bolts | Leave the belay leftwards past the single bolt, then cross the big garden straight up to the foot of the next wall, slightly right. Two-bolt belay at the base of the wall. |
| P3 | 5c | 50 m | 7 bolts | A pleasant, fairly vertical wall. Pass a tree on its right a few metres before the belay. |
| P4 | 5c | 40 m | – | Start up an arête, leave it leftwards across a sloping, rubbly ledge, then climb a fairly vertical wall. Take care leaving the ledge. A 2024 party split this pitch in two to cut rope drag. |
| P5 | 3b | 50 m | – | Follow the ledge right under the overhang and squeeze between a tree and the wall (rope drag) to a belay at the start of the exit ledge. |
Getting there
Taghia is a roadless Berber village in Azilal province, central High Atlas. From Marrakech it is about 5 hours by taxi to Zaouiat Ahansal (arranged through your gîte), then traditionally about an hour on foot with mules for the bags. A 2024 party reported a new jeep track that was blocked by a landslide, so ask your gîte about the current state.
From the last gîte in the village follow the stream on its right bank, cross to the left bank and climb up below the springs to the foot of the wall. The route starts about 1 to 2 m right of the first spring. No time is given; the neighbouring Paroi des Sources is under 15 min from the village.
Loading map
The point is approximate: it marks the area, not the crag.
Coordinates · area: approximate
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43750
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.77873, -6.06865 (area)
Getting down
Walk off: follow ledges to a small col that leads back to the village, about 20 min.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
No source describes a retreat, and the route is not set up for one. Belays are two unlinked bolts, the hard pitches are 45 to 50 m, and the descent is a walk-off from the top. You could abseil if you had to, but only with two ropes and by leaving your own cord and maillons at every belay, on loose rock above the busy springs.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
West facing, about 1950 to 2150 m. Camptocamp says the route goes into shade around midday in April, while a May 2024 party found the top of pitch 1 in the sun very early in the morning; see discrepancies and ask locally. Season roughly March to June and September to November.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Taghia are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws, slings to extend bolts against rope drag, and cord or slings to link the two belay bolts (belays are not connected). Helmet. A Spanish guide to Taghia advises carrying a little removable protection even on the bolted easy routes because of the spacing; no source specifies sizes for this route.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Ibtisane.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6c7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Taghia
Five pitches on new, very rough red rock just right of Au nom de la Réforme. The first three are steep, fingery and continuous with one short crux each; the last two are much easier. The original grades are 7a+, 7a and 6c+, now widely thought generous, and the cruxes are bolted closely enough to pull through.
6c+5 pitches200 m
Morocco · Taghia
A less-travelled neighbour of Au nom de la Réforme: a sustained 6b crack pitch, an unusual 6c that climbs through a hole and out left with one bouldery move, then three long pitches of 6a to 6a+ up a pillar. Getting off cleanly means either the sparsely bolted summit pitches or a short traverse to the Réforme abseils.
6c6 pitches190 m
Read the cautions
Around 5c · about 5 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
This was the second route on Montagna Spaccata and is the cliff's classic moderate. It's never hard but never trivial, with continuous exposure above the sea: a horizontal crack traverse, an athletic juggy chimney and corners. Gulliver gives UIAA grades V–V+ / IV+–V / V+ / V / V–IV+ (5c max), converted here.
5c5 pitches125 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.
5c5 pitches145 m
Spain · Montserrat
A straightforward line up the 'Phrygian cap' visible from the monastery. Only the short vertical step on pitch 3 is sustained. It is a good route for learning Montserrat pebble technique and has a summit cross with a big view. The approach takes about 10 min from the Sant Joan funicular top.
5c5 pitches140 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Five long pitches of 5c in the centre of the Levant wall, sharing its first pitch with Tromba Bitonale.
5c5 pitches195 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.