Morocco
The big-wall limestone cirque of the central High Atlas, reached by a 2-hour walk with mules from Zaouiat Ahansal. Most routes here are long, hard and committing, and bolted routes are often runout. The two listed are the gentle exceptions, both on the walls by the springs a few minutes from the gîtes. The village is at 1,900 m: April to June and September to October.
Where and when
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Taghia village below the Paroi des Sources and Oujdad
Climate figures for Taghia are not available yet
7 routes
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6c7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Taghia
Five pitches on new, very rough red rock just right of Au nom de la Réforme. The first three are steep, fingery and continuous with one short crux each; the last two are much easier. The original grades are 7a+, 7a and 6c+, now widely thought generous, and the cruxes are bolted closely enough to pull through.
6c+5 pitches200 m
Morocco · Taghia
One of the easiest long routes in the Taghia cirque: nine sustained pitches of 6a to 6b+ on compact slabs and steep pocketed walls, starting from the bed of a canyon. The bolts are sound but airy, the obligatory grade is 6a+ and the day is long.
6b+9 pitches320 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
Ten pitches of even 6b and 6b+ on compact rock ten minutes from the gîtes, mostly technical slab and wall climbing on your feet, with a 50 m sixth pitch on vertical edges that everyone singles out. It is among the most accessible long routes at Taghia, in the shade for most of the day, and a little polished low down.
6b+10 pitches330 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
The easiest bolted line at Taghia: three steep 5c walls linked by two long, easy garden pitches. Goes into shade around midday in April.
5c5 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
A less-travelled neighbour of Au nom de la Réforme: a sustained 6b crack pitch, an unusual 6c that climbs through a hole and out left with one bouldery move, then three long pitches of 6a to 6a+ up a pillar. Getting off cleanly means either the sparsely bolted summit pitches or a short traverse to the Réforme abseils.
6c6 pitches190 m
Read the cautions
Local words
Morocco