Greece
Kalymnos is the Dodecanese island that turned into one of Europe's sport-climbing capitals: grey and orange limestone covered in pockets, tufas and stalactites, almost all of it generously bolted with stainless glue-ins. The multi-pitch routes sit on the big walls above Masouri and on Telendos, the islet a 10-minute boat ride across the channel. Base yourself in Masouri or Armeos; fly to Kos and take the ferry from Mastichari to Pothia (or fly direct to Kalymnos). Best in spring and autumn (March–May, September–November).
Where and when
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Grande Grotta and Spartacus sectors above Masouri, facing Telendos
Climate figures for Kalymnos & Telendos are not available yet
9 routes
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
The first route on the wall (Odermatt and Keller, 2008), climbing a long, exposed line on sharp, grippy rock right of the huge roof. The lower pitches are easy for the grade. The two 6a cruxes are a short odd corner over a small roof and a traverse high up, and they come with big exposure. Pitches are short, so you can link them with long draws.
6a11 pitches250 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A sustained, varied line on sculpted limestone. It starts with an easy slab and builds to slightly overhanging jugs with huge exposure on the top pitch. Mountain Project and camptocamp grade the crux 6a+ (Rockfax says 6a). With a 70 m rope you can link several pairs of pitches.
6a9 pitches265 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Kalymnos's best-known introduction to multi-pitch: a series of steps and slabs, always with plenty of holds, finishing on top of the Grande Grotta. The upper pitches feel very exposed. Real pitch lengths are shorter than the guidebook says (20–25 m).
5c+6 pitches175 m
Committing
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Eleven pitches up the south face of Telendos on extraordinarily sculpted rock, finishing with a 50 m wall of flint-like knobs. Two 6b+ pitches low down are the cruxes and the grades are widely called friendly. With the boat or coastal walk in and the walk off over the island, it makes a full and memorable day.
6b+11 pitches265 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Thin moves over small bulges, stemming and big jugs on 'cauliflower' limestone. The crux is P6, which ends at a hanging belay. Mountain Project gives the pitches in YDS only (5.8–5.10b), so French pitch grades are not listed; the overall grade is 5.10b (6a+), and some listings give 6b. You can link P3–P4 and P5–P6.
6a+7 pitches152 m
Read the cautions
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A mountain-style outing high above Masouri, with a delicate traversing 6a on P4 and a lovely final corner. Most pitches feel easy for their grade, but the route is loose in places, so wear a helmet.
6a7 pitches170 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A short gem with slabs, crimps, water-drop pockets, a bulge and a traverse on superb rock, with the usual big Kalymnos view. It is the most popular guided 6a multi-pitch on the island.
6b4 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A varied, consistently sustained line on good rock with long pitches (25–38 m): vertical walls and a superb corner on P3. Quieter than the Masouri classics.
6a+5 pitches200 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A pretty route up the grey and orange walls of Ocean Dream to the summit plateau. The crux is a thin, sustained 6a+ slab on P3 where you must free the moves, and the line finishes on a vertical pillar. It is in the shade in the morning.
6b5 pitches150 m
Local words
Greece