Kalymnos – Trois Ilots (Middle), above Myrties · Kalymnos & Telendos · Greece
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
A varied, consistently sustained line on good rock with long pitches (25–38 m): vertical walls and a superb corner on P3. Quieter than the Masouri classics.
The route
Five long pitches on the Middle part of the Trois Ilots sector above Myrties, finishing on the plateau. Four of them are slabs and steps on beautifully featured rock; the third is the exception, a long corner and chimney that is more physical and feels almost alpine, and which several parties single out as the highlight. The grade is steady at 5c to 6a+ throughout, so it suits someone solid at 6a+. Bolting is reported as solid. It is much quieter than the Masouri classics, and the walk down across the empty plateau is part of the appeal.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 35 m | A good vertical wall. Felt 5c to a 2021 party. |
| P2 | 6a+ | 35 m | A small step, then easier. Felt 6a/6a+. |
| P3 | 6a+ | 38 m | The memorable pitch: a superb corner, then a vertical wall. A 2021 party describes it as a long chimney climbed on body positions, more intense than the rest. |
| P4 | 5c | 35 m | A wall on good holds. Felt 5c/6a. |
| P5 | 6a | 25 m | A vertical wall on small holds to the plateau. Felt 5c. |
Getting there
Base: Myrties or Masouri. The sector is reached from the upper road that runs between Myrties and Masouri. A 2021 party left their vehicle 45 min before starting to climb.
From the upper Myrties to Masouri road, follow the tarred track that soon becomes a path and leads to the clearly visible cliff, closing the gates behind you. About 20 min (figure given for the neighbouring route Albatros). The route starts in the 'Middle' part of the sector; no source describes the exact start, so use the guidebook topo.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap way 683685192 (Gerakios cliff, Kalymnos)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 36.99177, 26.93800 (crag)
Getting down
Walk off. From the plateau head south by sight into a dip and then a small canyon, which brings you to the Ourania sector. From there either keep traversing south by the easiest line below the Symplegades sector to a small road, or, to return to the start without going down to the road, stay level and go round the last pillar (Ourania) on the right, where a faint path along the cliffs on the seaward side leads back towards Gerakios and the approach path. A 2021 party took 45 min from the top to their vehicle; a 2022 thecrag log reports finding no cairns and taking about 1.5 h. The neighbouring route Albatros is also descended by four abseils down the route 'Modeste', about 20 m to the right (facing in) of its summit platform, but no source confirms how that relates to the top of Les Copains d'Abord.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The route is described only as a walk-off from the plateau, and no source says how the belays are equipped or whether anyone has abseiled it. Plan on finishing, and do not count on abseiling without checking the current guidebook.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
West to south-west facing. In shade until about 11:00, then hot: a September party recommends climbing in the morning and avoiding the afternoon. Ascents are reported in May, June, September and October. Quiet.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Kalymnos & Telendos are not available yet
What to carry
No source gives a rope length or quickdraw count. Pitches are up to 38 m, so the rope must be long enough for that and you will want plenty of quickdraws. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Les Copains d'Abord.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
The first route on the wall (Odermatt and Keller, 2008), climbing a long, exposed line on sharp, grippy rock right of the huge roof. The lower pitches are easy for the grade. The two 6a cruxes are a short odd corner over a small roof and a traverse high up, and they come with big exposure. Pitches are short, so you can link them with long draws.
6a11 pitches250 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A sustained, varied line on sculpted limestone. It starts with an easy slab and builds to slightly overhanging jugs with huge exposure on the top pitch. Mountain Project and camptocamp grade the crux 6a+ (Rockfax says 6a). With a 70 m rope you can link several pairs of pitches.
6a9 pitches265 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Kalymnos's best-known introduction to multi-pitch: a series of steps and slabs, always with plenty of holds, finishing on top of the Grande Grotta. The upper pitches feel very exposed. Real pitch lengths are shorter than the guidebook says (20–25 m).
5c+6 pitches175 m
Committing
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Thin moves over small bulges, stemming and big jugs on 'cauliflower' limestone. The crux is P6, which ends at a hanging belay. Mountain Project gives the pitches in YDS only (5.8–5.10b), so French pitch grades are not listed; the overall grade is 5.10b (6a+), and some listings give 6b. You can link P3–P4 and P5–P6.
6a+7 pitches152 m
Read the cautions
Around 6a+ · about 5 pitches
Spain · Montserrat
A modern linkup over two pinnacles on excellent conglomerate. Overhanging 6a and 6a+ walls alternate with easy 'potato-field' slabs. The new bolting makes it one of the most reassuring long lines in the massif.
6a+5 pitches185 m
Croatia · Paklenica
A short, high-quality modern line: a clean straight first pitch, then a steep crack crux and magnificent water grooves.
6a+5 pitches100 m
Read the cautions
Croatia · Omiš
Sharp, coral-like rock mixing slab and steep juggy walls, finishing up a crack system. It has the best views in Omiš, over the sea, the river and the old town.
6a+5 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Five 25 m pitches right of the deep groove on the Colorado, joining Anorexia for the last one. Mediocre rock low on the first pitch.
6a+5 pitches125 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.