Greece

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Wings for Life

The first route on the wall (Odermatt and Keller, 2008), climbing a long, exposed line on sharp, grippy rock right of the huge roof. The lower pitches are easy for the grade. The two 6a cruxes are a short odd corner over a small roof and a traverse high up, and they come with big exposure. Pitches are short, so you can link them with long draws.

6a11 pitches250 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Wild Country

A sustained, varied line on sculpted limestone. It starts with an easy slab and builds to slightly overhanging jugs with huge exposure on the top pitch. Mountain Project and camptocamp grade the crux 6a+ (Rockfax says 6a). With a 70 m rope you can link several pairs of pitches.

6a9 pitches265 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

3 Stripes

Kalymnos's best-known introduction to multi-pitch: a series of steps and slabs, always with plenty of holds, finishing on top of the Grande Grotta. The upper pitches feel very exposed. Real pitch lengths are shorter than the guidebook says (20–25 m).

5c+6 pitches175 m★★★

Committing

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Mignonette

The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.

5c+7 pitches175 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Eterna

Eleven pitches up the south face of Telendos on extraordinarily sculpted rock, finishing with a 50 m wall of flint-like knobs. Two 6b+ pitches low down are the cruxes and the grades are widely called friendly. With the boat or coastal walk in and the walk off over the island, it makes a full and memorable day.

6b+11 pitches265 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Rita Telendos

Thin moves over small bulges, stemming and big jugs on 'cauliflower' limestone. The crux is P6, which ends at a hanging belay. Mountain Project gives the pitches in YDS only (5.8–5.10b), so French pitch grades are not listed; the overall grade is 5.10b (6a+), and some listings give 6b. You can link P3–P4 and P5–P6.

6a+7 pitches152 m★★★

Read the cautions

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Lost Goat

A mountain-style outing high above Masouri, with a delicate traversing 6a on P4 and a lovely final corner. Most pitches feel easy for their grade, but the route is loose in places, so wear a helmet.

6a7 pitches170 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Oraia Stithi

A short gem with slabs, crimps, water-drop pockets, a bulge and a traverse on superb rock, with the usual big Kalymnos view. It is the most popular guided 6a multi-pitch on the island.

6b4 pitches120 m★★★

Read the cautions

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Les Copains d'Abord

A varied, consistently sustained line on good rock with long pitches (25–38 m): vertical walls and a superb corner on P3. Quieter than the Masouri classics.

6a+5 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Kapi Reborn

A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.

6a+7 pitches180 m★★★

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Aghios Lemmy

Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.

6b8 pitches160 m★★★

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Mira

Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.

6b7 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Manikia (Evia)

Efcharístisi

An even-graded route in a beautiful gorge setting: pocketed and sculpted slabs below, steeper walls above, with one athletic 6a+ move on P5. There are short walking transitions between the lower tiers.

6a+6 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Crete

Le Syndrome de Calimero

An accessible gorge multi-pitch with views over the canyon, the sea and the little Orthodox chapel. It has steep juggy walls, a short traverse onto an arête and a corner with a jammed block (take care). The rock is less sticky higher up.

6a+7 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Aramis

Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.

6c6 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Mazi

Eight pitches to the top of Kokkinovrachos, seven of climbing and one of scrambling through vegetation. A crack in a corner, slabs of coral-like rock and two short roofs give varied climbing, with three isolated 6c moves. It stays in the shade through the morning, unlike most of the wall.

6c8 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Manikia (Evia)

To monopáti ton Chelonón

A varied route in two tiers: two pitches of pocketed wall and sculpted slab, a walk across a big ledge, then four longer pitches up the main wall. The upper wall holds the 6c and a superb 40 m pitch of continuous vertical climbing. A quiet valley with a gentle walk down through meadow.

6c6 pitches200 m★★★

Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos

Abert Project

A pretty route up the grey and orange walls of Ocean Dream to the summit plateau. The crux is a thin, sustained 6a+ slab on P3 where you must free the moves, and the line finishes on a vertical pillar. It is in the shade in the morning.

6b5 pitches150 m★★★

Greece · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)

Zobolo tou Laou

An even, well-bolted line with sea views: a short corner and slab, steep walls and a superb final pitch with a juggy steep crux. The last belay is hanging and uncomfortable.

5c+4 pitches135 m★★★