Multipitch Atlas

Mira

Kokkinovrachos (right of Ramisi, left of Mignonette) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece

Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium

Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.

The orange Kokkinovrachos wall in profile above the Dafnon valley, seen from the foot of the cliff.Photo: RemyH · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

Photo

The orange Kokkinovrachos wall in profile above the Dafnon valley, seen from the foot of the cliff.Photo: RemyH · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
7
Length
200 m
Approach
25 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
2×50 m
or 1×80 m via the gorge abseils

The route

Overview

A seven-pitch sport route up the main red wall of Kokkinovrachos, passing the big orange niche you can see from Leonidio. The climbing is steep and on good holds: a grey-then-orange wall, a steep crack, a sustained bulge out of the niche, then a red slab with small tufa ribs. With the middle 6b exit almost every pitch is around 6b, with 6a+ obligatory. Bolts are very close. Opinions on the rock and the grades are split.

In pictures

Photos

Approach photo

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a+40 mA fairly steep wall on good holds, grey rock then orange. One party thought it 6b+.
P26b30 mA steep crack with an exit to the left. Athletic and the best pitch for several parties. One 2021 climber pulled a block off here.
P36b15 mDiagonally right into the big orange niche. Can be linked with P2 (16 quickdraws).
P46b20 mDiagonally left out of the niche up a ramp, then a sustained bulge on small holds that is hard to read. Some parties say 6b+, one says 6a.
P56b15 mA steep wall climbed diagonally right. The belay is 1 m left once over the wall. Can be linked with P4, but watch rope drag.
P66a38 mA short wall, then an inclined slab on red rock sculpted with tiny tufa ribs.
P76b30 mThree exits. Take the middle one: a short traverse right, then up between two pillars at 6b (one party found the pillar 6b+ and the hardest pitch, on sparse small pockets). The direct line above the belay is 'the dead wall', 6c+ on overhanging ochre rock. The easy escape traverses right at 5c to join the last 5c pitch of Mignonette, done as two pitches.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Leonidio. Walk from the village following the signs for Kokkinovrachos (the main parking is at the central bridge), or park at the Douvari parking on the second hairpin of the Vaskina road.

On foot · about 25 min

20 to 30 min by the route page; parties walking from the village report 40 min. Follow the signs for Kokkinovrachos to the foot of the cliff where the route name 'Aramis' is marked. Traverse about 20 m right along the base. Two routes start 1 m apart; Mira is the right-hand one. Ramisi is to the left and Mignonette further right.

Finding the route · 2 photos

  • OverviewThe orange wall of Kokkinovrachos seen from the path along its foot, taken moments before the photo of the start of Mira (March 2022).Photo: RemyH · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
  • Start of the routeLooking up from the start of Mira (March 2022): grey, easy-angled rock at the base under orange walls.Photo: RemyH · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

37.17236, 22.85832

Point from OpenStreetMap node 13450285322 (Ramisi rock, Kokkinovrachos)

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Three options. (1) Gorge abseil line to the east: turn right at the top, follow the cliff edge on a path with cairns and red dots, drop slightly into the gorge (approx. 37°10'21.5"N 22°51'36.7"E) to a platform, then two abseils of 30 m and 40 m, and walk back. (2) Abseil the route: R7 to R6 30 m, to R5 45 m, to R4 15 m, to R1 48 m, to the ground 45 m. (3) Walk off by the path from the top of the cliff to the road; it is a long road walk, and a taxi can be called from Leonidio.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

You can abseil the route, but only with two ropes. The published abseil line has drops of 45 m and 48 m, which a single rope will not cover. If you climb on a single 80 m rope and plan to use the gorge abseils, you cannot follow that line down from part-way up.

Retreat from
The published line goes R7 to R6 (30 m), R6 to R5 (45 m), R5 to R4 (15 m), R4 to R1 (48 m) and R1 to the ground (45 m). R2 and R3 are not on it. P3 runs diagonally into the orange niche, and a retreat from those two belays is not described.
Point of no return
None is documented. If only the last pitch is the problem, a 5c traverse right from R6 joins the last pitch of Mignonette and avoids the 6b exit.
Carry
2×50 m ropes.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesCamptocamp gives the abseil line and lengths and the need for 2×50 m; that a single 80 m rope cannot follow it is simple arithmetic on those lengths.

Safety

Hazards

  • Abseiling the route involves abseils of 45 m and 48 m. A single rope will not do.
  • The gorge line's second abseil is 40 m, and the path to it is easy but exposed in places (2022 report).
  • Rock: one 2021 party called it doubtful and took a fall on P2 when a block came off. Other parties call the rock excellent. Test holds.
  • The direct exit 'the dead wall' is given 6c+ and one party thought at least 7a, with polished, sloping holds. It is much harder than the rest of the route; take the middle or right exit to stay at 6b or below.
  • Linking P4 and P5 creates heavy rope drag.
  • Heat: this wall is a sun trap.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South facing on a wall that concentrates the sun. A party starting at 07:30 in November still found it far too hot; a February party found it warm from 13:00. Choose a cool or cloudy day and start early. Noise from the town is constant.

Usual season · Jan to Apr, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C111214182227303026211612
Mean daily low °C66810151922231915117
Rain days 1 mm or more1111108744357811

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 297 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

14 quickdraws, or 18 if you link P2+P3 and P4+P5. Abseiling the route needs 2×50 m ropes (48 m abseil). With a single 80 m rope, use the gorge abseils or walk off. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
14
Rope
2×50 m (or 1×80 m via the gorge abseils)
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Mira.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • The obligatory grade is about 6a+ (two reports) and the bolts are very close.
  • With an 80 m rope and 18 quickdraws, a 2025 party linked pitches in pairs without trouble, then used the two gorge abseils.
  • If the last pitch looks too much, the 5c traverse right into Mignonette adds one pitch and keeps the day easy.
  • Allow about 4 h for the route; a party abseiling the line took 5 h in all.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Grades: reports range widely. A 2021 party felt 6b+, 6b+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 5c; a May 2022 party felt 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+, 6a+, 6a, 6b+ (middle exit); a March 2022 party found the topo grades fair. Topo grades are used above.
  • P6 is 6a on camptocamp; a 2021 report quotes the printed topo as 6a+, and the same report quotes P5 as 6a+ where camptocamp has 6b.
  • Which pitches to link: the route page says P2+P3 and P4+P5; a 2025 party says they linked 'L3+L4 and L5+L6'.
  • Rock quality: 'doubtful' (2021) versus 'excellent' (April 2022).
  • Approach: 20 to 30 min on the route page, 40 min in two reports walking from the village.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Leonidio & Kyparissi

All routes in Leonidio & Kyparissi
The orange pillar at the right end of the main Kokkinovrachos wall, Leonidio.

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Mignonette

The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.

5c+7 pitches175 m

The red limestone wall of Kokkinovrachos rising directly above the rooftops and clock tower of Leonidio. Kapi Reborn is on the south-east face of this cliff; the exact line is not marked.

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Kapi Reborn

A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.

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The Hospital / Red Rock buttress of Kokkinovrachos above Leonidio, with the line of Aghios Lemmy drawn in red.

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Aghios Lemmy

Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.

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The red Kokkinovrachos wall above the rooftops of Leonidio, seen from Agios Nektarios.

Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi

Aramis

Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.

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Around 6b · about 7 pitches

Similar elsewhere

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Committing

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Tiwira

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Read the cautions

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Bombay Sapphire

A good continuation above Nitti. Highlights are a short, thin 6b slab on P4 and a pumpy steep start to the final 6a+ pitch.

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Read the cautions

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.