Kokkinovrachos (right-hand part of the main wall) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.
The route
Aramis takes the right-hand part of the main Kokkinovrachos wall, starting exactly where the approach path meets the cliff. It is homogeneous: after a long 6a+ first pitch every pitch is 6b or 6c on steep red and grey limestone. The route was put up by Yves Remy and Christophe Simeon and is bolted throughout, with parties in 2019 and 2022 both rating the rock and the equipment as excellent. You should be solid at 6b between bolts; camptocamp gives 6b as the obligatory grade.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | 48 m | 14 bolts | Easy start on grey rock, then quickly steep on good holds. Finish slightly left. |
| P2 | 6c | 25 m | – | Sustained. Starts with a 2 m traverse right. |
| P3 | 6b | 45 m | 14 bolts | A few easy metres horizontally left, then a long left-trending diagonal. Sustained without a distinct hard move. |
| P4 | 6c | 25 m | – | Starts on fragile rock, with one harder move. |
| P5 | 6c | 25 m | – | A steep wall of water-drop pockets, then big sculpted holds. |
| P6 | 6c | 40 m | 12 bolts | A 3 m bouldery 6c section, then continuous climbing on orange rock. The best pitch. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Leonidio, on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Kokkinovrachos is the red wall directly above the town. You can walk from the village following the signs for Kokkinovrachos, or use the Douvari parking on the Vaskina road and traverse right along the foot of the wall.
Approach from below as for the Douvari sector, then head right along the foot of the wall. The route starts exactly where the path reaches the cliff, and the name is painted in red at the base. Parties walking from the village to neighbouring routes report 30 to 40 min. You can also reach the route from the plateau by abseiling it or a neighbour; the route names are painted on the rock at the top.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from OpenStreetMap node 13450285322 (Ramisi rock, Kokkinovrachos)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17236, 22.85832 (crag)
Getting down
The route can be abseiled directly. camptocamp lists the stations from the top as R6, R5, R4 and so on, and asks for two ropes of at least 50 m. A March 2019 party chose to walk instead: go right along the top to a line of two abseils, then a path. They warn that the second of those abseils is 40 m, not the 30 m printed in their topo. Mazi parties use Aramis as their abseil line as well, so expect company.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is a normal descent and it is also used as the abseil line for the neighbouring route Mazi, so every belay is set up for it. You need two ropes of at least 50 m.
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing and low (the crag is at about 420 m), so this is a winter-sun wall: the crag record lists November to March. A party on 1 March 2019 found it hot at the base with a breeze from pitch 1 upwards. A May 2022 party climbed it in fine weather without comment on heat, but neighbouring routes on this wall are reported as too hot from late morning even in November.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Leonidio & Kyparissi are not available yet
What to carry
15 quickdraws and two ropes of at least 50 m (camptocamp). No trad gear is mentioned by any source. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Aramis.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Around 6c · about 6 pitches
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Six pitches of technical wall and corner climbing one minute from the gorge-entrance guesthouses. Easy pitches alternate with three hard ones, and the 6b+ fourth pitch and the 6c last pitch are precise, footwork-heavy climbing on very rough rock. The route stops in the middle of the wall and you abseil off.
6c6 pitches160 m
Greece · Manikia (Evia)
A varied route in two tiers: two pitches of pocketed wall and sculpted slab, a walk across a big ledge, then four longer pitches up the main wall. The upper wall holds the 6c and a superb 40 m pitch of continuous vertical climbing. A quiet valley with a gentle walk down through meadow.
6c6 pitches200 m
Morocco · Taghia
A less-travelled neighbour of Au nom de la Réforme: a sustained 6b crack pitch, an unusual 6c that climbs through a hole and out left with one bouldery move, then three long pitches of 6a to 6a+ up a pillar. Getting off cleanly means either the sparsely bolted summit pitches or a short traverse to the Réforme abseils.
6c6 pitches190 m
Read the cautions
Spain · El Chorro
Seven pitches up a steep south face at Frontales, sustained, physical and technical on very rough, unpolished limestone. The fifth pitch (6b+) is a thin slab and the sixth (6c) has a strenuous start and a crux on grey rock. It is one of the few 6c multipitch lines here with a clean abseil descent.
6c7 pitches195 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
