Greece
Leonidio sits under the 200 m red-and-grey limestone wall of Kokkinovrachos on the east coast of the Peloponnese, about 3.5 hours' drive from Athens. Most of the climbing is single-pitch, but a few dozen bolted multi-pitches climb the main cliff above the town, mostly bolted since 2015 by Claude Remy and Greek teams. The cliffs face south and are low, so it is a winter crag: October to April is the season, and summer is far too hot.
Where and when
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Kokkinovrachos (Red Rock) above Leonidio
Climate figures for Leonidio & Kyparissi are not available yet
6 routes
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.
6c6 pitches200 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Eight pitches to the top of Kokkinovrachos, seven of climbing and one of scrambling through vegetation. A crack in a corner, slabs of coral-like rock and two short roofs give varied climbing, with three isolated 6c moves. It stays in the shade through the morning, unlike most of the wall.
6c8 pitches200 m
Local words
Greece