Kokkinovrachos (far left of the Orama sector) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Eight pitches to the top of Kokkinovrachos, seven of climbing and one of scrambling through vegetation. A crack in a corner, slabs of coral-like rock and two short roofs give varied climbing, with three isolated 6c moves. It stays in the shade through the morning, unlike most of the wall.
The route
Mazi climbs a pillar at the left end of the Orama sector and finishes on the summit plateau of Kokkinovrachos. The guidebook rates it among the best ways to the top of the wall, and both camptocamp reports praise the rock. The difficulty comes in short steps: single 6c moves on pitches 4, 6 and 8, the last two through roofs with close bolts, separated by 6b climbing. camptocamp gives 6c obligatory, so do not count on pulling through.
In pictures
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5b | 25 m | Walk and climb up the 'elephant's foot' at the base to the belay straight above. |
| P2 | 6b | 25 m | A shallow corner, then slab. |
| P3 | 6b | 35 m | A fine crack in a corner running up the side of the pillar. |
| P4 | 6c | 25 m | Slab start, one 6c move out right, then back left to the belay. |
| P5 | 6b | 25 m | Over a spur, slightly right, then back left to a belay that is not visible from below. |
| P6 | 6c | 30 m | A corner, an exit left onto a slab of coral-like rock, then a closely bolted 6c roof. A 2026 party called the exit 'a bit tough'. |
| P7 | 3 | 15 m | A scramble through vegetation to the foot of the last wall. |
| P8 | 6c | 25 m | Straight up through the roof with a well-bolted 6c move. Another last pitch leaves to the right at 6c and is described as bold; do not take it by mistake. |
Getting there
Base yourself in Leonidio, on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Kokkinovrachos is the red wall directly above the town. You can walk from the village following the signs for Kokkinovrachos, or use the Douvari parking on the Vaskina road and traverse right along the foot of the wall.
About 30 min on foot from the centre of Leonidio. The route starts at the far left of the Orama sector, immediately left of the route Happy Wife.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp route 1774851
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 37.17311, 22.85473 (crag)
Getting down
Three options are reported. (1) Abseil down Aramis. (2) Abseil the route itself; the abseils are offset and there is a big roof left of pitch 6, so take care with direction. (3) An April 2026 party walked along the top and used the line of two abseils between the 'Right of Flag' and 'Hospital' sectors, which they found very efficient, then followed a path down, losing it in places. A May 2025 party who abseiled took 1.5 hours from the top to the ground.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Every belay has abseil rings and the route is one of the listed descents, so you can retreat from any stance. The abseils are offset, with a large roof beside pitch 6, and the belay bolts are not linked. Two ropes are needed.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-west facing, top at about 490 m. It is one of the few lines on the wall that stays in the shade for a long time in the morning: parties in late May 2025 and mid-April 2026 both climbed it in shade with dawn starts, the April party finding it cool. Expect full sun later in the day.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 11 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 22 | 27 | 30 | 30 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 12 |
| Mean daily low °C | 6 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 15 | 19 | 22 | 23 | 19 | 15 | 11 | 7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 8 | 11 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 297 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Two ropes for the abseils (Aramis needs 2×50 m minimum). The number of quickdraws is not published; the longest pitch is 35 m. Take a couple of slings or a cordelette for building belays, because the belay bolts are not linked. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Mazi.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
The easiest multi-pitch on Kokkinovrachos, following the easy-angled arête and pillar above Leonidio, with tufas, crimpy walls and a great view of the town. Rock is good apart from the scrappy P2–P3.
5c+7 pitches175 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Short, mostly vertical pitches on beautiful multi-coloured limestone with varied climbing. It is sustained at 6a+/6b from P2 to the top. The route name is written at its base.
6b8 pitches160 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Around 6c · about 8 pitches
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6c8 pitches250 m
Croatia · Paklenica
Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.
6c8 pitches220 m
Austria · Ötztal
Steep, exposed gneiss left of the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata, finding a way between huge roofs. The cruxes are the steep slabs of pitches 5 and 6 (6c). Stiffly graded, and the abseil descent is not for everyone.
6c8 pitches195 m
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6c7 pitches300 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
