Bouflilou · Amellago · Morocco
Read the cautionsBail not documentedBolting confidence: high
Seven pitches on very abrasive limestone beside the oued, with swimming holes below. An athletic start to the 6b second pitch; a couple of doubtful flakes on pitches 3 and 4.
Bolted on 10 mm bolts by its openers in 2010 but known from a single source with no logged repeats, doubtful flakes on two pitches and 6a obligatory.
The route
A seven-pitch bolted route on the Bouflilou cliff at Amellago in the eastern High Atlas, on good, very abrasive limestone beside the oued, with pools to swim in below. The hardest climbing is an athletic start to the 6b second pitch, followed by a 6a, a corner pitch and a 6a+ near the top. Protection is described as solid 10 mm bolts. Information is thin: the only description found is the first ascensionists' own camptocamp entry from 2010, which has no logged repeats, so treat it as a little-travelled route in a remote area.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c+ | 20 m | 5 bolts | – |
| P2 | 6b | 30 m | 12 bolts | Athletic start. This is the crux pitch. |
| P3 | 6a | 30 m | 6 bolts | A doubtful flake below the last bolt. |
| P4 | 5b | 30 m | 11 bolts | Doubtful flakes at the start, then a fine corner. |
| P5 | 5a | 20 m | 4 bolts | A cairn, a short step and a traverse. |
| P6 | 6a+ | 35 m | 10 bolts | – |
| P7 | 5a | 5 m | 2 bolts | Short final step, then walking to the top ledge. |
Getting there
Amellago is in the Rich area of Errachidia province, Morocco. By public transport take a bus to Er-Rich (on the Midelt–Errachidia road) and a taxi from there; you can also come from Todra by the road between Tinghir and Er-Rich (2 to 3 hours by taxi). The quickest way is to drive from Fès, about 5 hours, and a hire car pays off for groups of more than two. Local climber Mimoun runs a gîte (the first ascensionists refer to the 'oasis Tizarouine'), which has topos and food.
About 10 minutes according to camptocamp. No walking directions or description of the start are published; ask Mimoun at the gîte for the Bouflilou sector and the start of the route.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 237261
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 32.00817, -5.06954 (crag)
Getting down
Walk off: go directly left along the ledge where the route finishes and follow cairns and Berber steps down. About 40 minutes.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The only source is the openers' 2010 camptocamp entry, which gives a walk-off from the top and says nothing about abseiling, escape lines or how the belays are rigged. Treat it as a route you intend to finish, and carry gear to leave in case you cannot.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
North facing according to camptocamp, so mostly in the shade. Amellago lies at about 1,400 m; camptocamp lists the area as climbable all year, with sunny south-east to south-west walls elsewhere for cold days. The oued below has bathing spots.
Sun on the wall · N-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Amellago are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws. Rope length is not stated; the longest pitch is given as 35 m and the descent is on foot. Helmet advisable given the flakes noted on pitches 3 and 4.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to 8anus.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Amellago
The most accessible multipitch at Amellago: four short pitches broken by a walk along a ledge under the roofs, finishing with an exposed traverse on rough brown rock. Some doubtful rock at the start of pitch 3. In shade from mid-afternoon in winter.
6b4 pitches80 m
Read the cautions
Around 6b · about 7 pitches
Morocco · Taghia
The friendly way into Taghia, starting at the water's edge beside the springs. Seven varied pitches, well bolted by Taghia standards. Go left around the unstable rock below the second belay; fragile blocks are marked in red. In shade until midday.
6b7 pitches270 m
Committing
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Steep climbing on good holds through grey and then orange rock, including a fine steep crack and a sustained bulge out of the big orange niche you can see from town. For the last pitch take the 6b middle exit or the 5c traverse into Mignonette. The direct 'dead wall' exit is 6c+, much harder than the rest of the route.
6b7 pitches200 m
Spain · El Chorro
A good continuation above Nitti. Highlights are a short, thin 6b slab on P4 and a pumpy steep start to the final 6a+ pitch.
6b6 pitches138 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.