Morocco · Amellago
8anus
Seven pitches on very abrasive limestone beside the oued, with swimming holes below. An athletic start to the 6b second pitch; a couple of doubtful flakes on pitches 3 and 4.
6b7 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Allah bri des toits
Paroi Tizzarouine · Amellago · Morocco
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
The most accessible multipitch at Amellago: four short pitches broken by a walk along a ledge under the roofs, finishing with an exposed traverse on rough brown rock. Some doubtful rock at the start of pitch 3. In shade from mid-afternoon in winter.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b
- Pitches
- 4
- Length
- 80 m
- Approach
- 30 min
- Aspect
- SE
- South-east-facing
- Rope
- 2×50 m
Read before you go
Fully bolted, but brand new, single-sourced, unrepeated on record and on a wall with a lot of fragile rock.
The route
Overview
A short four-pitch route put up in 2026 on the Tizzarouine wall above Amellago, described by its openers as the most accessible multipitch there for now. Two pitches lead to a big ledge under a band of roofs, you walk 30 m left along the ledge, then a 35 m wall and an exposed 15 m traverse on rough brown rock finish at an abseil station. The one hard move, a mantel over a small roof straight off the first belay, can be pulled on the bolt. The route is brand new, has no logged repeats on camptocamp, and the wall has a lot of fragile rock, so treat it as less clean than its grade and bolt count suggest.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
5a6b6a5b
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5a | 15 m | 3 bolts | Short easy pitch to the first belay. |
| P2 | 6b | 30 m | 6 bolts | One move straight off the belay to get over the small roof, a sort of mantel taken on the right (6b), or pull on the bolt (A0), which is described as very easy. Then about 5c on good rock to the big ledge under the roofs. From the belay walk about 30 m left along the ledge to the first bolt of pitch 3. |
| P3 | 6a | 35 m | 11 bolts | The start is on rock that is doubtful in places. The second half is on good, extremely abrasive brown rock. |
| P4 | 5b | 15 m | 4 bolts | An exposed traverse on very good brown rock to the abseil station on a ledge. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
Amellago (Aït Slimane hamlet) is in the eastern High Atlas near Er-Rich, Errachidia province. Quickest is from Fès, about 4 to 5 hours by road; from Tinghir and the Todra Gorge about 3 hours on the paved road via Tamtetoucht and Assoul; from Marrakech 7 to 10 hours depending on the source. Without a car, take a bus to Er-Rich and a taxi from there. Stay with Mimoun Goali, the local climber who runs the gîte (L'Oasis Tizzarouine) and keeps the only topo.
On foot · about 30 min
About 30 min. Start from Mimoun's new guesthouse, the isolated stone house closest to the Tizzarouine wall. Aim for two long roofs side by side with a small roof just below and between them. They sit just right of the dry shale waterfall, well right of the route 'Du moi dans toi' and just left of 'Le prêtre et l'arc-en-ciel'. The route starts below these roofs. No painted name is mentioned.
Map of the walk-in
- Area: approximate
Loading map
The point is approximate: it marks the area, not the crag.
Coordinates · area: approximate
32.00367, -5.04152
Point from camptocamp waypoint 102826
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Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 32.00367, -5.04152 (area)
Getting down
Descent
Two abseils. The first is 40 m and free-hanging, from the top station down to the ledge of belay 2. Walk back along the ledge to belay 2, then abseil 40 m to the ground.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Bail with caveats
From the lower half, yes: belay 2 on the big ledge is the anchor for the second abseil of the normal descent, 40 m to the ground. Higher up it is less clear. The only abseil station the openers describe above the ledge is at the very top, after the exposed 15 m traverse of pitch 4, and it gives a 40 m free-hanging abseil back to the ledge.
- Retreat from
- Belay 1 is only 15 m up. Belay 2 is on the big ledge and is the documented 40 m abseil to the ground; you can also walk the 30 m of ledge back to it from the start of pitch 3. The top station is the documented abseil from the end of pitch 4. Whether belay 3 is rigged for abseil is not stated.
- Point of no return
- None is documented. From belay 3 the described way down is to finish the short 5b traverse to the abseil station, so in practice it may be easier to complete pitch 4 than to retreat from belay 3 (inference).
- Carry
- Two ropes of at least 40 m; 2×50 m fits. A maillon or two and cord in case you have to leave belay 3, since its rigging is not described.
- Basis
- Part stated, part inferredThe openers' camptocamp page states the two 40 m abseils, the first free-hanging to the ledge and the second from belay 2 to the ground; the status of belays 1 and 3 and the point about pitch 4 are inferred.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- New route (2026) on a wall with a lot of fragile rock. The openers ask you to climb carefully in places and to clean as you go. The start of pitch 3 is on doubtful rock.
- The first abseil is 40 m and free-hanging. You must land on the ledge and walk to belay 2 for the second 40 m abseil.
- No repeat ascents or condition reports were found, so everything here rests on the first ascensionists' own description.
- Many other lines on this wall are only partly bolted and need cams. Make sure you are on the right line: the neighbour to the right, 'Le prêtre et l'arc-en-ciel', is semi-equipped.
Sun and weather
Conditions
South-east facing at about 1400 m. In winter the route goes into shade at about 15:00, and pitch 3 is in shade from about 14:30. The openers suggest it as an end-of-day route, or climbing the first two pitches in the sun and eating on the ledge under the roofs. The rock is very abrasive on the skin.
Usual season · Mar to May, Oct to Nov
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January: not yet worked out
- February: not yet worked out
- March (usual season): not yet worked out
- April (usual season): not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June: not yet worked out
- July: not yet worked out
- August: not yet worked out
- September: not yet worked out
- October (usual season): not yet worked out
- November (usual season): not yet worked out
- December: not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Amellago are not available yet
What to carry
Gear
13 quickdraws (camptocamp). The source does not state rope length; two 40 m abseils mean two ropes of at least 40 m, and the 2×50 m listed here fits that. Helmet strongly advised given the rock. No trad gear is mentioned.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 13
- Rope
- 2×50 m
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
- Maillons or spare karabiners
- To leave behind if you retreat
- Cord
- Mentioned for retreat
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Allah bri des toits.
Worth knowing
Tips
- The full topo is kept at Mimoun's guesthouse. Ask him; he knows every route and helped bolt many of them.
- Pulling on the first bolt of pitch 2 brings the route down to 6a.
- The openers think two more pitches could continue the leftward diagonal to the next ledge, but that extension had not been climbed when the page was written.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Only one source describes this route (camptocamp, written by the openers). Other pages were used only for travel and for general information on the wall.
- Camptocamp's summary line says '6a max' while the pitch table gives 'A0 or 6b' for the roof move. The 6b is a single move that can be aided.
- Drive times from Marrakech differ: about 7 hours on camptocamp, 8 to 10 hours on the grimperaumaroc page.
Provenance
Sources
- Camptocamp – Amellago: Allah bri des toitsUsed for: approach, pitches, bolts per pitch, descent, gear, shade, history, warnings
- Camptocamp – Amellago (crag page)Used for: travel, lodging, topo, character of the big wall and its semi-equipped routes
- Grimper au Maroc – Aller à AmellagoUsed for: drive routes and times, gîte
- Les petits aventuriers – Tizzarouine: Le puits, l'hôtel et le flouzUsed for: independent account of the same wall: abrasive rock, stainless bolts
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.