Montagna Spaccata (Gaeta) · Gaeta & Sperlonga · Italy
Read the cautionsCommittingBolting confidence: high
The showpiece of the Montagna Spaccata: four steep, exposed pitches up a knife-edge spur that drops straight into the sea, reached by abseil. Sustained around 6a+ on good holds, with an overhang at 6b to finish.
Newly re-bolted in titanium, but it is a committing abseil-in sea cliff route crossed by unrestored lines, with unclear access rules.
The route
La Croce del Sud follows the crest of the spur left of the Via dei Camini (looking out to sea) on the sea cliff of the Montagna Spaccata at Gaeta. It was first climbed in 1992 and is the harder neighbour of the Via dello Spigolo, with which it shares its first metres. The climbing is vertical to gently overhanging on big, sometimes greasy holds, and the exposure is constant from the first move. It was one of three routes fully re-bolted in titanium in 2025 after tests showed how badly the old anchors on this wall had corroded.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ | A vertical to slightly overhanging wall on good but sometimes greasy and polished holds, with a harder move at two-thirds height, then a traverse right to a good terrace and a belay shared with Spiderman. The first metres are shared with the Via dello Spigolo, which soon leaves to the right. The Italian page gives 5c+. |
| P2 | 6a+ | A small overhang straight off the belay, then gently overhanging ground to the sharp crest of the spur. The Italian page gives 6a. |
| P3 | 6a | Follow the crest, switching from one side to the other, in a very exposed position, to an uncomfortable hanging belay. The Italian page gives 5c. |
| P4 | 6b | The hardest pitch: a bulge that is steeper than it looks and hard to read, on good but very sharp holds, then a few easy metres to the top. Easier variants leave to the right. The Italian page gives 6b+. |
Getting there
Base is Gaeta (Lazio). Drive to the Santuario della Montagna Spaccata on Monte Orlando and park at the sanctuary.
From the sanctuary go immediately left, then right alongside the church, and follow the path to the seventh bend, where a small path rises to the right. About 50 m along it is a small terrace with the abseil stations of the Via dei Camini. Abseil the Camini line: four abseils on the French camptocamp page, three on the Italian one, and possible with a single 70 m rope. All these stations, including the intermediate ones, were replaced in 2025. At the bottom, just above the water, traverse 4 m along a fixed rope to the starting belay on glue-ins (to the right on the French page, to the left on the Italian one).
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 40736
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 41.20472, 13.57056 (crag)
Getting down
You finish on the cliff top; walk back to the car by the approach path.
Retreat
Committing
You abseil in to a terrace just above the sea, so retreating down the route only returns you to the start. From there the options are to climb out by this route or the easier Via dello Spigolo (5c), which shares the start. Easier variants avoid the final 6b on the right.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-east facing sea cliff: sunny and warm, best from autumn to spring. An October party climbed in full sun with a light breeze. The first pitch is polished and can be greasy from sea spray; higher up the rock is extremely abrasive.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Gaeta & Sperlonga are not available yet
What to carry
Two ropes of at least 50 m (Italian camptocamp page) or a single 70 m rope for the abseils. No source gives a quickdraw count. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to La Croce del Sud.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
This was the second route on Montagna Spaccata and is the cliff's classic moderate. It's never hard but never trivial, with continuous exposure above the sea: a horizontal crack traverse, an athletic juggy chimney and corners. Gulliver gives UIAA grades V–V+ / IV+–V / V+ / V / V–IV+ (5c max), converted here.
5c5 pitches125 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Around 6b · about 4 pitches
Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
A compact modern sport multipitch by Tomo and Dragica Česen, front-loaded with its longest and hardest pitch. It is close to the road and good for a half-day.
6b4 pitches90 m
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
A short gem with slabs, crimps, water-drop pockets, a bulge and a traverse on superb rock, with the usual big Kalymnos view. It is the most popular guided 6a multi-pitch on the island.
6b4 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Amellago
The most accessible multipitch at Amellago: four short pitches broken by a walk along a ledge under the roofs, finishing with an exposed traverse on rough brown rock. Some doubtful rock at the start of pitch 3. In shade from mid-afternoon in winter.
6b4 pitches80 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
Four 35 m pitches starting 3 m left of the Espolón del Adamelo and finishing at the same belay. Harder and more sustained than its neighbour.
6b4 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.