Multipitch Atlas

Rita

Placche Zebrate (Dro) · Arco & Valle del Sarca · Italy

Read the cautionsBail not documentedBolting confidence: medium

This is the archetypal long, easy Arco slab, first climbed in 1971. It wanders up the lower bands and then improves into a superb water-worn chimney system in the upper half. It is very polished and very busy, so start early. Original grade 6- UIAA per bergsteigen.com; gulliver gives 5c max.

The Parete Zebrata (Placche Zebrate) above Dro, with the lines of three other routes at its left end markedPhoto: jof · CC BY-SA 3.0

Photo

The Parete Zebrata (Placche Zebrate) above Dro, with the lines of three other routes at its left end markedPhoto: jof · CC BY-SA 3.0
Hardest pitch
5c
Pitches
16
Length
400 m
Approach
30 min
Aspect
E
East-facing
Rope
1×50 m
Read before you go

Bolted and needs no trad gear, but spacing is not sport-crag standard, the chimneys are polished and rockfall on this busy slab is a real hazard.

The route

Overview

Rita is one of the long, easy classics of the Placche Zebrate (the 'Sonnenplatten') above Dro: 16 pitches up the middle of the slabs. The lower half wanders over ramps, ledges and short walls at about 3c–4a. The climbing improves with height and the highlight is the deep, water-worn chimney system in the upper half (three pitches of about 5c), visible from the car park. It was the second route climbed on the wall, in 1971. It is well protected for the grade but not at sport-crag spacing, the chimneys are polished, and there is real rockfall risk from the scree above and from other parties.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

Pitches of Rita
PitchGradeNotes
P13cEasy ramps.
P23cEasy ramps, then right.
P34aA corner, then right.
P44aA vertical wall, then clearly left.
P54aA ramp and a short wall.
P64aA short wall, a ramp to the right, then a crack.
P74aLeft, then short walls.
P85cA short wall and a small overhang, then right.
P95cA deep, stepped chimney.
P105cDeep chimney, then a short wall.
P114bA polished chimney.
P124cA flared corner.
P135aA short wall, then left.
P144aA short wall, then leftwards.
P15–Ungraded traverse left along a ledge to another belay.
P164aA short wall, then a greasy flared crack to the top.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

The Placche Zebrate are above the road between Pietramurata and Dro, north of Arco. Park at the Placche Zebrate car park with the toilet hut, next to the fish farm and just before the bar 'Parete Zebrata' (on the left if you come from Arco via Dro). Car break-ins are frequent here: leave nothing valuable in the car.

On foot · about 30 min

20–30 min. From the car park take the good marked path towards the slabs, cross a forestry track and continue towards the wall; the Rita chimney is easy to pick out. After the wood, go up scree to a rise where the route starts at about 390 m. The route name is written at the base. Put your helmet on before you reach the wall.

Map of the walk-in

  • Route base
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the base of the route.

Coordinates · route base

45.99738, 10.91882

Parking

45.99550, 10.92640

Parking marked on bergsteigen.com

Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/rita-placche-parete-zebrate-sonnenplatten

For your phone or watch

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Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Walk off, 40 min to 1 h. From the top go left (facing in) on the descent path across the scree above the wall to a fenced aqueduct. Gulliver says not to follow the forestry road there but to take the path that turns sharply left and drops down steep scree to the valley (40 min). bergsteigen.com describes going down the descent path to a forest road and following that back to the car (1 h). Either way, do not knock stones off while crossing above the wall, and keep away from the foot of the wall on the way down.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail not documented

Retreat is not documented. Gulliver and bergsteigen.com describe only the walk-off from the top. Neither says how the belays are equipped or whether the route can be abseiled. With 16 pitches that often move left or right, do not count on an easy way down from the middle.

Basis
Stated in the sourcesNeither source gives any abseil, belay or retreat information, so no judgement is made.

Safety

Hazards

  • Rockfall. A large scree slope lies above the wall and the descent path crosses it; parties descending or climbing above can send stones down. Wear a helmet from the approach onwards and do not linger close under the wall.
  • Protection is rated good for the grade but explicitly 'not sport-crag spacing' (bergsteigen.com). Gulliver warns that this is an old alpine wall turned into a sport venue, 'with logical and dangerous consequences'.
  • Polish: the P11 chimney is polished and the final crack is greasy.
  • Car break-ins at the car park are common.

Sun and weather

Conditions

East facing according to bergsteigen.com (Gulliver lists it as south), with the base at about 390 m. The slabs are very popular; neighbouring-route pages describe the area as very busy. No source read gives a best season for this route.

Usual season · Mar to Jun, Sep to Nov

Sun on the wall · E-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

  • January: not yet worked out
  • February: not yet worked out
  • March (usual season): not yet worked out
  • April (usual season): not yet worked out
  • May (usual season): not yet worked out
  • June (usual season): not yet worked out
  • July: not yet worked out
  • August: not yet worked out
  • September (usual season): not yet worked out
  • October (usual season): not yet worked out
  • November (usual season): not yet worked out
  • December: not yet worked out

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

Climate figures for Arco & Valle del Sarca are not available yet

What to carry

Gear

One 50 m single rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and a helmet (bergsteigen.com). No nuts or cams are listed. Gulliver notes that 70 m ropes let you skip many belays, but you must then extend the runners a lot.

Checklist

Quickdraws
10
Rope
1×50 m
Helmet
One each

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Rita.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • With a 70 m rope you can skip several belays in the easy lower half if you extend the runners.
  • bergsteigen.com allows 4.5 h for the climbing and 6 h for the whole outing.
  • Arco is the base for accommodation and shops.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Length: 400 m of climbing (Gulliver) versus 520 m of climbing for 400 m of height (bergsteigen.com).
  • Grade: 5c max, 5a obligatory (Gulliver) versus UIAA 6-, 5+ obligatory (bergsteigen.com). These agree on the maximum (6- is about 5c) but bergsteigen's obligatory grade is higher.
  • Aspect: East (bergsteigen.com) versus South (Gulliver).
  • Approach: 20 min (Gulliver) versus 30 min (bergsteigen.com). Descent: 40 min (Gulliver) versus 1 h (bergsteigen.com), and they describe different lines below the aqueduct/forest road.
  • Gulliver lists 16 pitches but grades only 15; the P15 ledge traverse has no grade. It is shown here as 'walk' in the pitch grades.
  • Neither source read states the bolt type on Rita. Glue-in bolts could not be confirmed for this route; bergsteigen.com mentions glue-ins only for the neighbouring Man ilia.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.