Italy
The limestone walls of the Sarca valley north of Lake Garda hold hundreds of multipitch routes, from the polished, crowded Placche Zebrate slabs near Dro to quieter walls around Sarche. Spring and autumn are prime time (summer is very hot); base yourself in Arco, reached from the A22 Brenner motorway at Rovereto Sud. Bolting styles vary a lot: modern sport-style lines sit next to Heinz Grill plaisir routes protected mainly by threads, and old routes retro-bolted with spaced glue-ins.
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Placche Zebrate, Dro
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7 routes
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
This is the archetypal long, easy Arco slab, first climbed in 1971. It wanders up the lower bands and then improves into a superb water-worn chimney system in the upper half. It is very polished and very busy, so start early. Original grade 6- UIAA per bergsteigen.com; gulliver gives 5c max.
5c16 pitches400 m
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Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
A succession of short walls and slabs separated by ledges, with the first two pitches shared with Amazzonia. The crux is a single 5c/6a move just below the P5 belay. It's a relaxed, well-protected outing above the Sarche gorge.
5c10 pitches250 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Eight sustained pitches up the wall opposite the Laterna restaurant, rarely easier than 6a. The crux is a short overhanging wall on pitch 5 that can be pulled through on the bolts. Less cleaned than its neighbours, with some broken rock on pitch 6.
6c+8 pitches220 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Six pitches of steep wall and corner climbing up a pillar, almost never below 6a. Closely bolted and on good rock, so it works as a first 6b+ multipitch. The slightly overhanging slab on the last pitch catches out tired arms.
6b+6 pitches170 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Steep, athletic corner climbing on the Mandrea wall above Arco, with pocketed slabs where the corner turns loose. Mostly 6a to 6b with a harder move on pitch 5 and the crux in the last pitch; both go at A0. The long layback corner near the top is the pitch people remember.
6c10 pitches275 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
A popular plaisir line up the lower south-west wall of Piccolo Dain, starting at the gate of the weir in Sarche. Cracks and small corners lead to a fine 6a slab on water drops, then a long corner pitch. Expect queues: three routes share the opening traverse.
6a8 pitches235 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
An easy, relaxing sport route on low-angle Zebrate slabs, trending left to right to join Cane Trippa at the fifth belay. It's an excellent first multipitch. Gulliver gives UIAA III / II–III / IV / IV–IV+ for the first four pitches, converted here.
5b6 pitches240 m
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