Piccolo Dain – Parete del Limarò (Sarche) · Arco & Valle del Sarca · Italy
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A popular plaisir line up the lower south-west wall of Piccolo Dain, starting at the gate of the weir in Sarche. Cracks and small corners lead to a fine 6a slab on water drops, then a long corner pitch. Expect queues: three routes share the opening traverse.
The route
One of the standard well-bolted routes on the Parete del Limarò, the lower wall of Piccolo Dain directly above Sarche. Bergsteigen.com recommends it as a first route of a climbing holiday because of the short approach, good protection and moderate grades. The climbing is varied: a traverse start shared with Amazzonia, crack and corner pitches at 5b to 5c, a 6a slab and a long 5c corner. The name refers to the moon bears farmed for bile in Asia, a cause the first ascensionists wanted to draw attention to.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4b | 40 m | 7 bolts | From the gate follow the first two traversing pitches of Amazzonia, run together, to a belay at the painted name Moonbears. Mostly grade II with one opening move of IV+. Changed in 2026 by the rockfall nets; check the current topo. |
| P2 | 4b | 23 m | 6 bolts | Big holds up a small corner just right of the belay to a ledge. |
| P3 | 5b | 28 m | 7 bolts | Still right of the belay to a short slab, easier on its left, then gradually easier rock to the belay. |
| P4 | 5c | 32 m | 9 bolts | A fine pitch up a series of cracks and small corners, with obligatory moves. Take the crack right of the belay, delicate at first, then slightly left. The belay is in the middle of the slab with room for two. |
| P5 | 6a | 27 m | 7 bolts | The best pitch: a slab of water drops and cracks. Up a few metres, then diagonally left across the slab to the belay. |
| P6 | 3 | 20 m | 5 bolts | Easy broken rock on big holds straight up to the foot of the corner. |
| P7 | 5c | 35 m | 11 bolts | The slab left of the corner, then right into the corner and up it to a ledge with the route book. The squeeze in the corner just below the belay is awkward. |
| P8 | 4b | 30 m | 6 bolts | A bulge to start, then an easy ramp to the last belay. |
Getting there
Sarche is in the Sarca valley about 20 km north of Arco. From the A22 leave at Trento and follow the road towards Riva del Garda to Sarche. Park in the village centre near the junction for Madonna di Campiglio (gulliver.it starts from the Albergo Bar Ideal). The lane to the weir is private with no parking.
About 15 min on the flat. Walk along the pavement of the SS237 towards Ponte Arche and Madonna di Campiglio, pass a petrol station and continue about 200 m. Before the bridge over the Sarca, cross the road and take the farm lane (gravel track along the river) to the gate of the weir directly under the wall. The route starts at the gate with the traversing pitches of Amazzonia.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/moon-bears-picol-dain
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.04740, 10.94570 (route base) · Parking: 46.04630, 10.95240
Getting down
On foot, about 45 min. From the last belay follow the track right to the rockfall fence, where the descent path starts by going uphill through the woods (red marks, about 10 min) to meet the path coming down from the summit of Piccolo Dain. Turn right and descend (signs for the via ferrata) past some fixed ropes to a junction marked on a boulder, and go down right, steeply, to Sarche. Near the houses take a track right to the bowls club car park; going left leads into private land and a locked gate.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Gulliver.it states that abseiling the route is possible but discouraged because of the number of parties on the wall and the loose rock. The first pitch is a long traverse, so a retreat ends with a traverse or a diagonal abseil back to the gate.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-west facing with the base at about 250 m. Good from spring to autumn outside hot summer afternoons, and on mild winter days. Bergsteigen.com gives 3 h 30 min for the climb.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Arco & Valle del Sarca are not available yet
What to carry
10 quickdraws and a single 50 m rope according to bergsteigen.com; gulliver.it counts 11 bolts on pitch 7, so 12 quickdraws lets you clip everything. No nuts or cams. A helmet is essential.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Moon Bears.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.