Placche Zebrate (Dro) · Arco & Valle del Sarca · Italy
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
An easy, relaxing sport route on low-angle Zebrate slabs, trending left to right to join Cane Trippa at the fifth belay. It's an excellent first multipitch. Gulliver gives UIAA III / II–III / IV / IV–IV+ for the first four pitches, converted here.
The route
Man-Ilia (written 'Man ilia' on bergsteigen.com) is a short, easy route on the far left of the Placche Zebrate above Dro: six pitches and about 225–240 m. The rock is mostly juggy, with only occasional friction slab, and the route gets better as it goes, ending with a long, well-featured corner. The only harder climbing is a few metres near the top. It is bolted with glue-ins and has roomy two-bolt belays, which makes it a popular first multipitch. It joins Cane Trippa at the fifth belay.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 3a | Gulliver grades it UIAA III. |
| P2 | 2c | UIAA II/III. A traversing pitch. |
| P3 | 4a | UIAA IV. |
| P4 | 4b | UIAA IV/IV+. Slabby in its upper part. |
| P5 | 5a | The long corner, with one smoother section near the belay. Going straight up is possible on good threads. Joins Cane Trippa at the belay. |
| P6 | 5b | Take the bolts to the right of the belay: a few metres of 5b on a short wall, somewhat polished, then easier. Alternatively finish up the last pitch of Cane Trippa at about UIAA III. |
Getting there
The Placche Zebrate are above the road between Pietramurata and Dro, north of Arco. Park at the Placche Zebrate car park with the toilet hut, next to the fish farm and just before the bar 'Parete Zebrata' (on the left if you come from Arco via Dro). Car break-ins are frequent here: leave nothing valuable in the car.
20–30 min. From the car park take the good path towards the slabs, cross a forestry track and then keep left: the route is on the far left of the slabs, in the area of the 46° Parallelo. Where the path meets the wall, follow traces up the scree to the start, slightly right of and below the gully of 46° Parallelo. A faint, faded 'MANI' is painted at the base (start at about 380 m). Put your helmet on before reaching the wall.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/mam-ilia-placche-parete-zebrate (marker labelled approximate)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 45.99554, 10.91742 (crag) · Parking: 45.99560, 10.92630
Getting down
Walk off, about 45 min. From the top traverse left (facing in) on a path across the scree, taking care not to dislodge stones onto the routes below, then follow the descent path down. It comes back past the start area, from where you return to the car park by the approach path.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. Neither Gulliver nor bergsteigen.com mentions abseiling the route; both give only the walk-off from the top. Belays are two glue-in bolts on roomy stances, but nothing says they are linked or ringed, and no pitch lengths are published. Six pitches over 225 to 240 m suggests pitches of about 40 m, which the recommended single 50 m rope would not cover in abseil.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
East facing; base at about 380 m. A very busy area. No source read gives a best season for this route.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Arco & Valle del Sarca are not available yet
What to carry
One 50 m single rope, 8 quickdraws, a few slings and a helmet (bergsteigen.com). Nuts and cams are not needed.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Man-Ilia.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
This is the archetypal long, easy Arco slab, first climbed in 1971. It wanders up the lower bands and then improves into a superb water-worn chimney system in the upper half. It is very polished and very busy, so start early. Original grade 6- UIAA per bergsteigen.com; gulliver gives 5c max.
5c16 pitches400 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
A succession of short walls and slabs separated by ledges, with the first two pitches shared with Amazzonia. The crux is a single 5c/6a move just below the P5 belay. It's a relaxed, well-protected outing above the Sarche gorge.
5c10 pitches250 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Eight sustained pitches up the wall opposite the Laterna restaurant, rarely easier than 6a. The crux is a short overhanging wall on pitch 5 that can be pulled through on the bolts. Less cleaned than its neighbours, with some broken rock on pitch 6.
6c+8 pitches220 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Six pitches of steep wall and corner climbing up a pillar, almost never below 6a. Closely bolted and on good rock, so it works as a first 6b+ multipitch. The slightly overhanging slab on the last pitch catches out tired arms.
6b+6 pitches170 m
Around 5b · about 6 pitches
Spain · Montserrat
A popular first Montserrat multipitch close to the monastery. Steep pebble walls at 5b are split by easy slabs, finishing on an airy summit cap.
5b6 pitches145 m
Read the cautions
Switzerland · Glarus (Brüggler)
Seven homogeneous pitches of grade 5 up the middle of the Brüggler's big limestone slab, much of it on water runnels, finishing among the pines near the summit cross. Never hard, but it climbs all the way and the bolts are not close. Best if you are solid at 5c.
5b7 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
The first route opened on the Zucco dell'Angelone, following the natural line of the fourth spur by corners, cracks, a chimney and friction slabs. Eight varied pitches at 5a to 5b with an easy crest to finish. Never hard but never trivial either.
5b8 pitches220 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Four pitches of even 5b, five minutes from the road. In the sun all afternoon. A good short first multipitch of a trip.
5b4 pitches125 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.