Monte Colt – Parete San Paolo (Arco) · Arco & Valle del Sarca · Italy
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
Eight sustained pitches up the wall opposite the Laterna restaurant, rarely easier than 6a. The crux is a short overhanging wall on pitch 5 that can be pulled through on the bolts. Less cleaned than its neighbours, with some broken rock on pitch 6.
The route
A hard sport multipitch on the north part of the Parete San Paolo, the long east-facing wall of Monte Colt between Arco and Ceniga. The climbing stays at 6a to 6b for most of its length, with a 6c+ overhanging wall on pitch 5 and a 6c bulge on pitch 6; both sources say the hardest moves can be aided. Bergsteigen.com calls the bolting perfect but notes the route is not as well cleaned as the nearby Grill and Kluckner routes. The first half and the last pitch through the steep red wall are the best parts.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | An awkward slab straight off the ground, then a good crack slanting right (6b then 6a). |
| P2 | 6b+ | A featured wall, a traverse left, then diagonally left to a belay on the arete (6a, 6b+, 6a). |
| P3 | 6a+ | Up the arete, then diagonally left to the foot of a corner and up it to the belay. |
| P4 | 6a | Continue up the corner and, where it ends, straight up a good featured wall (5b to 6a). |
| P5 | 6c+ | A slab (6b) and then an overhanging wall, 6c+ free. The wall can be aided on the bolts. Bergsteigen.com grades this passage UIAA 8-. |
| P6 | 6c | A small arete (6a+), then straight up broken rock and blocks (about 4) to a short overhanging wall (6c). |
| P7 | 5c | Slabs and short walls broken by vegetation to a belay under the red wall. |
| P8 | 6b | Straight up left of the belay (the first bolt is hard to see), then right over cracked blocks and up an overhanging crack to the top (6a+ to 6b). |
Getting there
Arco is at the north end of Lake Garda. By car leave the A22 Brenner motorway at Rovereto Sud (Lago di Garda Nord) and drive via Nago to Arco. Buses serve Arco and Dro. From Arco follow the narrow road on the west bank of the Sarca past the campsites to the Pizzeria/Gasthof Laterna, where the driving ban begins: the road between the Laterna and the Roman bridge at Ceniga is closed to traffic. You can also walk in from the campsites in about 20 min along the canal road, cycle, or approach on foot from Ceniga.
About 15 min. Directly opposite the Laterna there is a chapel by the road. Go over the wall to its right and follow a path up through the scrub to the cliff, then a little left to the start below an obvious smooth wall. The name 'Via Roberto' is written at the base (gulliver.it mentions a small name plate).
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/via-roberto-parete-san-paolo-arco
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 45.93880, 10.89550 (route base) · Parking: 45.93860, 10.89690
Getting down
On foot, about 30 min. From the top follow traces west for a few steps to the hiking path and take it down, keeping right, to the road. Follow the road back to the Laterna.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. Both sources describe a walk-off from the top and neither says how the belays are rigged or whether the route is abseiled. With the single rope that is normally carried you could only make short abseils.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
The wall faces east at about 110 to 350 m and gets morning sun. This is a spring and autumn venue; summer afternoons are in the shade but the valley is hot. Bergsteigen.com gives 2 h 30 min for the climb.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Arco & Valle del Sarca are not available yet
What to carry
12 quickdraws and a single 60 m rope (bergsteigen.com). No nuts or cams. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Via Roberto.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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Read the cautions
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France · Verdon
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Committing
Spain · El Chorro
Four pitches in a row at 6b+ to 6c+ on extremely rough limestone: technical water-pocket moves that are hard to read, then an athletic pitch up easy tufas to a hard pull over an overhang. Quiet and steep, with 6b+ obligatory.
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Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.