Plage Mansour Droite · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Steep, fingery wall climbing that starts with your feet almost in the stream at the gorge entrance. The 7a second pitch is hard for only 2 to 3 metres and can be swapped for a 6b pitch on the neighbouring route, after which three pitches of 6b+ to 6c+ on pocketed and edgy rock lead to the top. Abseil descent.
Rebolted low down in 2015 and well regarded, but the upper pitches were still on older anchors in 2019 and the last abseil needs 60 m ropes.
The route
A six-pitch line on the right-hand part of the Mansour wall, just inside the gorge entrance. The direct second pitch is 7a for a short bulge; most parties in the reports avoided it by a 6b pitch of the adjacent Voie des Dévoluards. A 15 m scramble then leads to three steep pitches of 6b+ and 6c to 6c+ that are the heart of the route. Two parties rated it as highly as, or above, Cœur de Palmier for sustained quality.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | 30 m | Starts above the water channel. A slab on small edges that is hard to read and a little worn; one 2018 climber thought it 6a+. |
| P2 | 7a | 25 m | The difficulty is concentrated in 2 to 3 m through a bulge. Variant: 6b, 25 m, to the right up the Voie des Dévoluards, more of a crack and corner. A 2018 party placed one cam on the variant. |
| P3 | 3b | 15 m | Traverse left across easy steps to the foot of the next wall. |
| P4 | 6b+ | 25 m | A steep, pocketed wall: a technical bulge, an easier crack, a swing left and a last move below the belay. |
| P5 | 6c+ | 25 m | Graded 6c/6c+. Bouldery start, then technical and steep. |
| P6 | 6c+ | 30 m | Graded 6c/6c+. Another technical wall on small holds. |
Getting there
Base yourself at the mouth of the gorge near Tizgui, about 14 km from Tinghir. The gorge-entrance guesthouses are a few minutes on foot from the wall and there is a car park on the left at the gorge entrance, just before the first hotel. Tinghir is reached by road or bus from Marrakech; a taxi covers the last stretch.
A few minutes from the gorge-entrance car park: either cross the stream beyond the last small shop, or cross the road bridge inside the gorge and walk back along the wall of the irrigation channel. The route starts from the channel, with new hangers, just after the roof. Leave the ropes on the small beach below to keep them dry.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 779468
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.58236, -5.59271 (crag)
Getting down
Abseil the route: R6 to R4, R4 to R2, then R2 to the ground, which is 51 m. On 2×50 m ropes that last abseil does not reach comfortably, so take 60 m ropes or stop at R1. You can keep the ropes out of the water with care.
Retreat
Easy to bail
The normal descent is by abseil down the route, so retreat from any belay is the same manoeuvre. Pitch 3 is a 15 m traverse, so from R3 you reverse it to R2 first. The last abseil from R2 is 51 m.
Safety
Sun and weather
South facing at about 1400 m and sunny for much of the day: a March party 'cooked' on it in the morning, and a February party had 20°C in the afternoon. Reports are from December to March.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
Two ropes for the abseils. The number of quickdraws is not published; 13 are recommended for Cœur de Palmier on the same wall. Slings are useful for adjusting the stances. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to China Perdida.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
6a+9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
6a8 pitches320 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 7a · about 6 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
Two pitches of bridging up a 60 m corner hung with tufas and stalactites (6c+, 6c), then grey water-drop walls and a short roof at 7a that goes in three moves of aid. Seven pitches of varied climbing on perfect, unpolished rock.
7a7 pitches220 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The other great line of the Visera, on a concave wall that leans further out the higher you go. Six pitches at 6a to 6b on big cobbles lead to the vulture ledge, then one short, very overhanging crux pitch above enormous exposure. That last pitch is about 7a free, or roughly 6b to 6c with rests on its closely spaced bolts.
7a7 pitches250 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
France · Ariège Pyrenees
The hard classic of the Calamès pillars above Bédeilhac: technical slabs, a well-bolted roof and a sustained 6c wall, capped by a short 7a slab pitch after a walk across a garden. Compact rock and close bolts make it a good place to try harder grades on a multipitch. The middle pitch is vegetated.
7a5 pitches180 m
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
One of the essential long routes of the Baou: seven pitches that hardly drop below the sixth grade, each with a different problem, from thin slab to a steep bulge and a superb layback corner at 6c. The single 7a section on pitch 2 is closely bolted and can be aided. Expect a few loose blocks and a scrappy link pitch across the Vernet ledge.
7a7 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.