East face · Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps) · Italy
One of the hardest modern sport lines on the Procinto's east face: two 6c+ pitches of steep climbing on spaced holds, a bouldery 6b, an easy link and a superb sustained 7a pitch through an overhang into a crack.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point about 1050 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point).
Well bolted with ringed belays according to the only source, a gulliver card based on the first ascensionists' information; no independent report could be read.
7aVIII5.11d5 pitches · 135 mEasy to bail
Angeli e Demoni climbs the east face of the Procinto from the small grotto where 'Gioie e dolori' starts. It was bolted ground-up in several stages by Claudio Bacci, Edoardo Mutti and Silvia Tamagno, a former pupil of the Monteforato climbing school. Five pitches, 135 m: two 6c+ pitches of athletic climbing, a bouldery 6b, an easy 5a link and a long, sustained 7a pitch through an overhang into a beautiful crack. It is well bolted and every belay is equipped for abseiling. The obligatory level is about 6b.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Alpi Apuane Multipitch.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6c+VIII-5.11c | 25 m | Athletic moves on good holds, sometimes far apart. Belay near that of 'Gioie e dolori'. |
| P2 | 6c+VIII-5.11c | 30 m | Good pockets, then a hard-to-read crack and a boulder move about three-quarters of the way up. The first two bolts are shared with the neighbouring route. |
| P3 | 6bVII5.10c | 25 m | A technical move off the belay, then a boulder move over a small roof and easier to the belay. |
| P4 | 5aV+5.7 | 20 m | Short steps, steeper in places. |
| P5 | 7aVIII5.11d | 35 m | Very sustained in the overhang with a hard move halfway, then a superb crack. Watch the rock in the last few metres and extend runners. |
Leave the A12 at the Versilia exit and follow signs for Stazzema. Just before the village, on the last hairpin, a road forks right (sign for Rifugio Forte dei Marmi on a wall); follow it a few minutes to where the asphalt ends and park. The hut (865 m) is open daily from mid-June to mid-September and at weekends all year.
From the parking at the road end above Stazzema follow path 5A (ex 5bis), partly paved, through woods past a spring to the Rifugio Forte dei Marmi (under an hour), then follow the signs for the Procinto ferrata for about 15 minutes to the small wooden bridge onto the 'cintura', the ledge path round the base of the tower. Follow the path below the east face to the right (facing the wall) to the small grotto where 'Gioie e dolori' starts. Angeli e Demoni starts a couple of metres to the left; do not confuse it with a newer, unfinished line a little further left.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from camptocamp waypoint 353230 (Monte Procinto summit; the walls ring the tower within about 200 m)
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 44.00385, 10.34484 (crag)
Abseil the route from the equipped belays. Alternatively an easy pitch through the woods from the last belay leads to the summit, from where you descend the via ferrata.
Easy to bail
Every belay is equipped for abseiling and the pitches are 20 to 35 m, so retreat by abseil is possible from any stance.
Italy
112Emergency, where the single number is in service
Emergency, where the single number is in service
Where 112 is not yet the single number, call 118 and ask for CNSAS.
Position of the crag
44.00385, 10.34484
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
Quickdraws (number not given) and slings to extend runners on pitch 5; rope for the abseils (not specified); helmet.
East-facing at about 1000 m: morning sun, afternoon shade. Slow to dry after rain.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1050 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1050 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 4 | 5 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 18 | 21 | 21 | 17 | 13 | 8 | 5 |
| Mean daily low °C | −1 | −2 | 1 | 3 | 7 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 10 | 7 | 3 | −0 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 12 | 11 | 11 | 13 | 12 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 13 | 14 | 13 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1071 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Italy · Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps)
A modern line in the middle of the Procinto's east face, opened in 2019. Typical Procinto climbing on big but spaced holds: two physical cruxes on pitches 1 and 4, easier pitches between, and an abseil descent from ringed belays.
6a+VII-5.10b6a+VII-5.10b5 pitches130 m
Around 7a · about 5 pitches
France · Ariège Pyrenees
The hard classic of the Calamès pillars above Bédeilhac: technical slabs, a well-bolted roof and a sustained 6c wall, capped by a short 7a slab pitch after a walk across a garden. Compact rock and close bolts make it a good place to try harder grades on a multipitch. The middle pitch is vegetated.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d5 pitches180 m
Italy · Sicily (Palermo)
A sustained modern sport multipitch on the wild north wall of the Addaura, a few hundred metres from the city. Every pitch is 6c+ or 7a with 6c obligatory, on limestone that needs to be dry. Fully rebolted with 12 mm stainless in 2022.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d5 pitches180 m
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
A short, sustained and very well bolted line on the pillar left of the Arête S, parallel to La Tonton Walker. Thin walls, a steep stratified pitch on big holds and one blank slab move of 7a that most people pull through. The friendliest introduction to the harder routes of the Baou, and easy to extend to the summit by one of the routes above the Vire Vernet.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d5 pitches100 m
Morocco · Akchour (Rif)
Five pitches through tufa columns, a leaning corner and a lichenous chimney on extraordinarily abrasive rock. The first pitch is a three-dimensional 6a+ on jugs between columns and the 7a fourth pitch is an athletic, well-bolted column climb. Two short passages on the easier pitches are run-out.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d5 pitches160 m
Read the cautions
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.