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Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps)

Monte Procinto (1177 m) is a squat limestone tower in the southern Apuan Alps above Stazzema in Versilia, ringed at its base by a ledge path (the 'cintura') from which 80 to 150 m walls rise on every side. It has been climbed since the 19th century (a via ferrata was built on the south side in 1893), and the sport-climbing boom of the 1980s and recent bolting by local guides and climbers have covered it with steep, athletic routes on big but spaced holds. Leave the A12 at Versilia, drive towards Stazzema and, at the last hairpin before the village, fork right to the road end; the Rifugio Forte dei Marmi (865 m) is under an hour up path 5A and the tower about 15 minutes beyond. Climb from late spring to autumn; the walls stay wet for a long time after rain.

GuidebookAlpi Apuane Multipitch, Gregorio Pedrini (2026, Versante Sud). Buy from versantesud.it. The route pages here are aggregated by AI from public sources; climb with the guidebook.

Routes
2
Grade span
6a+to7a
Longest route: Angeli e Demoni
135 m
The walls of Monte Procinto rising above the ledge path, seen from path 5 on the approach.
The walls of Monte Procinto rising above the ledge path, seen from path 5 on the approach.Photo: Brachistocrone 21 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Location and climate

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Monte Procinto, above Stazzema · 1,071 m

Monthly climate averages for Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps), 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMarAprMay (usual season)Jun (usual season)Jul (usual season)Aug (usual season)Sep (usual season)Oct (usual season)NovDec
Mean daily high °C4571014182121171385
Mean daily low °C−1−21371113141073−0
Rain days 1 mm or more1211111312108810131413

● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1071 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

Routes in Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps)

Monte Procinto from the approach, showing the walls above the ledge path (route not marked)

Italy · Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps)

Diedro delle Sorprese

A modern line in the middle of the Procinto's east face, opened in 2019. Typical Procinto climbing on big but spaced holds: two physical cruxes on pitches 1 and 4, easier pitches between, and an abseil descent from ringed belays.

6a+6a+5 pitches130 m

A view of the region, not this route's wall. Monte Procinto from the approach, showing the walls above the ledge path (route not marked)

Italy · Monte Procinto (Apuan Alps)

Angeli e Demoni

One of the hardest modern sport lines on the Procinto's east face: two 6c+ pitches of steep climbing on spaced holds, a bouldery 6b, an easy link and a superb sustained 7a pitch through an overhang into a crack.

7a7a5 pitches135 m

Read the cautions

Download parking and wall bases as GPX (2 points)

At the crag and in town

Italian

corda
rope
rinvio
quickdraw
spit, fix
bolt
sosta
belay, anchor
tiro
pitch
Blocca!
Take!
Corda!
Slack!
Recupera!
Take in!

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