Monte Muzzerone is the limestone headland above Portovenere at the mouth of the Gulf of La Spezia, where grey and white cliffs drop straight into the Ligurian Sea. Most of the climbing is single-pitch, but the wild Parete Striata, about 200 m high and reached by fixed ropes or abseils from the cliff top, holds the area's multipitch routes. Drive from La Spezia towards Portovenere, turn right before Le Grazie and follow the narrow road up to the old fort, parking at the last hairpin; La Spezia has the nearest railway station and Portovenere has buses and lodging. The walls face south and south-west, so the season runs from autumn to spring and sunny winter days are ideal; summer is too hot.
GuidebookMuzzerone - Falesie e vie moderne, Davide Battistella (2017, Versante Sud). Buy from versantesud.it. The route pages here are aggregated by AI from public sources; climb with the guidebook.
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Parete Striata, Monte Muzzerone above Portovenere · 253 m
| Measure | Jan (usual season) | Feb (usual season) | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 9 | 9 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 22 | 24 | 25 | 21 | 17 | 13 | 10 |
| Mean daily low °C | 4 | 3 | 5 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 18 | 19 | 15 | 12 | 8 | 5 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 11 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 13 | 14 | 13 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 253 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Italy · Muzzerone (Portovenere)
The best-known multipitch on the Parete Striata, straight above the sea near Portovenere. Technical slabs and corners on varied grey and yellow limestone lead to a steep, juggy 6b+ crux on pitch 4, then an easy link pitch and a last 6a wall. Short approach by abseil, walk-off descent.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d6 pitches220 m