Roca dels Arcs · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) · Spain
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
The route
A short but intense route, typical of Vilanova: every pitch is 35 to 40 m, vertical to gently overhanging, on horizontal strata with good but sometimes hidden holds. Pitches 1 and 2 are sustained 6a with a roof to pass on the second. Pitch 3 carries the grade, with a morphological boulder problem at the start, a long pumpy wall and a second boulder problem above a ledge at the very end. The last pitch is an enjoyable 5c to the terrace. With 21 logged ascents on camptocamp it is one of the most repeated bolted routes on the wall. It caused some controversy when opened for overlapping the older Montse Pueyo route on its first two pitches.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | 35 m | A technical move at the start, then fine, vertical, sustained climbing that depends on body position. Belay below the roof. Slightly polished: several parties find it as hard as pitch 2 or harder, around 6a+. |
| P2 | 6a | 40 m | Leave the belay leftwards to turn the roof, then climb diagonally right up a gently overhanging wall on good, sometimes hidden holds to a belay on a ledge. Given 6a+ by some. A superb pitch. |
| P3 | 6b+ | 40 m | Up to the right over a bulge with a reachy, powerful move, then straight up about 30 m of sustained, slightly overhanging strata. At a ledge with one bolt the pitch finishes with a short step that is a hard boulder problem (6b bloc on camptocamp, 6c or harder in several reports) with the ledge below you. You can skip it by belaying at the Passatgers del Vent belay on the right of the ledge. |
| P4 | 5c | 40 m | A typical Vilanova V+: enjoyable but you have to stay alert. Ends at the terrace. |
Getting there
Drive to Vilanova de Meià (Lleida) and take the road north out of the village to the parking below the Roca dels Arcs (camptocamp access point 'Vilanova de Meià - N', about 900 m). No source used here describes the road in more detail.
Take the good path that runs along below the cliff. Pass the red roofs and, on reaching the left part of the wall, aim for the last big corner of the cliff (the Montse Pueyo corner). The route starts a few metres right of that corner, directly below a roof, just left of Passatgers del Vent, among bushes. The letters 'SQ' at the foot are hard to read. Other routes on the wall are given as 15 to 20 min from the parking; one party took 3.5 hours car to car.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
camptocamp access waypoint 551854 (Vilanova de Meià - N)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 41409
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.02356, 1.02974 (crag) · Parking: 42.02250, 1.03485
Getting down
From the terrace reach the top of the wall by the easiest line (a short scramble to the crest). Follow the path leftwards, which brings you back to the foot of the route in about 20 min.
Retreat
Bail not documented
No source describes retreating from this route. The normal exit is to walk off the top. The belays are presumably bolted like the rest of the route, and the neighbouring Tierra de Nadie is described as abseilable, but that tells you nothing certain about these belays.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east to south facing at about 900 to 1,000 m and in the sun all day. Climbed in comfort in late November and in February and March; reports stop in May. Too hot in summer except late in the day (one party climbed it on an August evening).
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) are not available yet
What to carry
15 quickdraws. A single 60 m rope is enough since the descent is on foot. One 2017 photo shows a small cam placed on the route, which that author puts down to circumstances on the day. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to El Somni de Quimfer.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Around 6b+ · about 4 pitches
Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)
Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.
6b+4 pitches105 m
Read the cautions
Austria · Ötztal
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+5 pitches170 m
Italy · Sardinia
Five steep, sustained pitches at 6b to 6b+ straight out of the sea on new titanium bolts, on abrasive, pocketed limestone. Bulges, a smooth roof, a corner and a thin finishing crack, with a cave belay after pitch 1.
6b+5 pitches160 m
Austria · Zillertal
A slab route on the left side of the Wiegelwand with steep passages on small edges; UIAA 7/7+ at the crux on pitch 3, 6 to 6+ obligatory. The easier pitches are a bit grassy. Often wet, so look from below first.
6b+5 pitches110 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.