Spain

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Espolón del Adamelo

This is the gentlest way to sample Riglos. Polished pockets and two bulging 'panzas' lead to a 6a crux that can be pulled through on the bolts (A0). The upper spur is easy, and the Pisón towers loom close by.

6a7 pitches175 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Sendero Límite

A long beginner's big route on good conglomerate at a moderate angle. Pitches can be linked in pairs with a 60 m rope. A four-pitch headwall with a couple of panzas finishes high above the Gállego valley.

5c14 pitches375 m★★★

Spain · Montserrat

Integral d'en Pitu i la Nuri

A modern linkup over two pinnacles on excellent conglomerate. Overhanging 6a and 6a+ walls alternate with easy 'potato-field' slabs. The new bolting makes it one of the most reassuring long lines in the massif.

6a+5 pitches185 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

Amptrax

The absolute El Chorro classic: a physical, sustained line that feels tough for the grade, with a 6a traverse right under the roof. Polished in places from heavy traffic.

6a9 pitches182 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

Estrella Polar

Ten varied pitches on good rock in a superb position: a roof, slabs, a tenuous traverse by a cave and a steep corner. Several pitches feel stiff for the grade, especially the P2 crux.

6b10 pitches279 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

Lluvia de Asteroides

An airy, exposed adventure on clean, solid rock: the best long easy route on the Frontales and an ideal first big multipitch.

5+8 pitches251 m★★★

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Via Llum de Lluna

Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.

6b5 pitches216 m★★★

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Spain · Costa Blanca (Morro Falquí)

Sonjannika

A superb sea-cliff multipitch. P4 makes an impressive exposed exit from a cave with 100 m of air below, and the 6a+ P5 has a chimney and fingery slab. Balancy, airy and great for introducing someone to multipitch.

6a+6 pitches170 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Normal al Puro

The way up the detached cigar that is the symbol of Riglos, first climbed in 1953. A polished corner, then the chimney between the Puro and the Pisón, then three short pitches on the outside of the needle to a tiny summit. Very polished in the chimney and on the boulder moves. In shade most of the day.

6b10 pitches180 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

La Fiesta de los Bíceps

The famous overhanging line up the left side of the Visera, following the white chalk stripe you can see from the village. A polished, technical 7a pitch low down, then five pitches of ever steeper climbing on huge cobbles where the difficulty is staying un-pumped. Bolts are sound but spaced, and above the third belay the only practical way off is the top.

7a8 pitches250 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Zulú Demente

The other great line of the Visera, on a concave wall that leans further out the higher you go. Six pitches at 6a to 6b on big cobbles lead to the vulture ledge, then one short, very overhanging crux pitch above enormous exposure. That last pitch is about 7a free, or roughly 6b to 6c with rests on its closely spaced bolts.

7a7 pitches250 m★★★

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Spain · Costa Blanca (Peñón de Ifach)

Costa Blanca

The sport classic of the Peñón: a thin slab, a corner crack that steepens into an overhang, a pillar, then a wild exit from a big cave 200 m above the sea. Sustained at 6b with a 6c fifth pitch on polished slopers and a 6c+ last pitch whose crux can be pulled through on a bolt.

6c+7 pitches220 m★★★

Spain · Costa Blanca (Peñón de Ifach)

Mare Nostrum

Nine steep pitches up the wildly sculpted right side of the south face, overhanging almost throughout. Two long 7a pitches open the route and a third comes near the top, and even the 6a+ pitches are athletic. The rock is covered in holds and much less polished than the classics to the left.

7a9 pitches310 m★★★

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Spain · Montanejos

La Luna

Eight pitches up a vertical prow deep in the Maimona canyon, on orange rock full of pockets (agujeros means holes). Sustained at 6a+ to 6b and physical throughout, with a huge roof start to the crux pitch and a bench to sit on at the third belay. Closed from January to June.

6b+8 pitches235 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Espolón Gallego (optionally + Espolón Fuertes)

An airy spur with sustained 5b–5c climbing, a single 6a step on pitch 7, and big views over the Mallos de Riglos and the Pyrenees.

6a9 pitches230 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Tierra de Naide

A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.

5c5 pitches145 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Anorexia

The best-known route on the Mallo Colorado. Two steep, juggy panza pitches have a well-protected boulder move, giving a short taste of real Riglos steepness at a friendly grade.

5c4 pitches150 m★★★

Spain · Montserrat

Via Sargantanes

A popular first Montserrat multipitch close to the monastery. Steep pebble walls at 5b are split by easy slabs, finishing on an airy summit cap.

5b6 pitches145 m★★★

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Spain · Montserrat

Via del Carles

A straightforward line up the 'Phrygian cap' visible from the monastery. Only the short vertical step on pitch 3 is sustained. It is a good route for learning Montserrat pebble technique and has a summit cross with a big view. The approach takes about 10 min from the Sant Joan funicular top.

5c5 pitches140 m★★★

Spain · Montserrat

Via Stromberg

A shady north-face outing that suits warm days. Steady 5c pebble climbing leads to a short overhang crux (6a, or 5c/A0) and the summit cross.

6a4 pitches120 m★★★

Spain · Montserrat

98 Octanos

An exposed, airy line with unusually good holes and jugs for Montserrat, shaded in the afternoon. The 6a pitch is a sustained vertical 20 m. Going straight up instead of following the line is closer to 6b+.

6a4 pitches140 m★★★

Spain · Collegats

Tanger

A consistent, well-bolted line starting with a crack under the big pylon. Ten pitches of 5b–6a+ are split by a 100 m scramble through a vegetated 'garden' before the final tier.

6a+10 pitches300 m★★★

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Spain · Escales (Ribagorça Pyrenees)

Boney M

A modern two-tier line above the Escales dam. Six pitches of slab and a well-protected 6a gully lead to the big ledge, and four more pitches of 5b wall reach the ridge.

6a10 pitches295 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

La Joya del Gállego

Varied, sustained limestone of chimneys, dihedrals and compact fluted slabs high above the Tena valley. Bearded-vulture nesting closes the face from 1 Dec to 31 Jul unless lifted early, so check montanaregulada.org.

6a+10 pitches265 m★★★

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Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Valle de Canfranc

A long, mostly easy slab-and-dihedral route with a single 6a slab on pitch 6, in a fine setting facing away from Candanchú. Wait about 30 h after rain because the lower gully drains water.

6a15 pitches400 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Roca por un Tubo

High-mountain granite slabs and dihedrals above the Panticosa spa. Three 6a cruxes mix friction slab with a short flaky roof on pitch 7.

6a9 pitches300 m★★★

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Spain · El Chorro

Blue Line

The longest easy line in El Chorro. It starts up a broken corner-ramp, then climbs a steeper wall trending right to the top. It's uncommitting and easy to link pitches, with some loose rock to watch for.

5c12 pitches310 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

Bombay Sapphire

A good continuation above Nitti. Highlights are a short, thin 6b slab on P4 and a pumpy steep start to the final 6a+ pitch.

6b6 pitches138 m★★★

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Spain · El Chorro

Valentine's Day

A popular, sunny short multipitch in one of the easier Frontales sectors. Mostly 5/5+, with a brief 6a crux.

6a4 pitches130 m★★★

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

La Ley del Deseo

A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.

6a6 pitches152 m★★★

Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)

Código Vertical

A popular modern four-pitch classic on Pared Negra's compact grey limestone, around UIAA 6/6+ (about French 6a). Best on cool, sunny winter days.

6a4 pitches150 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

José Antonio Sanz

A good first route at Riglos: seven sustained 6a pitches on the spur of the Frechín, with a grandstand view of the Visera. Manage rope drag on the wandering first pitch.

6a+7 pitches180 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Currucuclillo

Just left of José Antonio Sanz and a little less sustained, on better rock than its neighbours.

6a+9 pitches200 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Negro sobre Rosa

Two chimney pitches, a crack, then a pillar with bulging panzas. The crux is one awkward clip on pitch 7, which you can pull through.

6a+8 pitches250 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Chopper

A fine short route on the right edge of the Pisón, ending on a big terrace at half height. A vertical wall on small holds on pitch 3 and two hard moves on the last pitch.

6b5 pitches150 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Ursi

A way up the Pisón at 6a+ if you accept two pitches of pulling on bolts at the start. The seventh pitch is a contender for the best corner at Riglos. Take care with the rock on pitches 3 and 4.

6a+10 pitches270 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Vía del Bolo

An arm-pumping 6a to start and a superb 6a to finish, with easier ground between. Skip the bolt-and-thread stance under the overhang on pitch 4 and belay 5 m higher.

6a5 pitches125 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Carla

A companion to Anorexia at the same grade. One unavoidable boulder move over the first panza, then easier, steady climbing.

5c4 pitches135 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Reina de los Mallos

A varied and unusual route: polished cobbles, a chimney belay in an old vulture nest, and an ochre corner. It is recent and not fully cleaned, and two earthy gullies are crossed on pitches 4 and 7.

6a8 pitches260 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Espolón de Poniente

Starts past the huge roof on the west face and climbs to the Punta Blanca. A superb short 6a corner on pitch 3, then a long run of grade 4 and 5. In shade in the morning.

6a10 pitches250 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Vía del Ibón

A mountain-style line on dark, weathered granite twenty-five minutes above the spa of Baños de Panticosa. It links ramps, a short overhanging break, slabs and a rounded boulder, with one well-bolted 5c move and the rest 4b to 5b. The rock between the good sections is earthy and lichenous, but the friction is excellent and the bolting generous.

5c7 pitches260 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Irene y la Paz

A recent, closely bolted line on the Mallo Frechín and a good way to get to know Riglos without being frightened. A stiff 6b+ second pitch that many find nearer 6c, then steep, sustained 6a and 6a+ over a succession of bulges on unpolished rock. You can abseil off from the top.

6b+7 pitches190 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Normal a la Aguja Roja

The easiest way up a real Riglos summit: five short pitches of 4c on a ramp, a crack and a chimney, steep enough to feel like proper climbing. It is the standard beginners' route and the descent for the whole needle, so expect queues and people abseiling past you. In shade most of the day.

4c5 pitches100 m★★★

Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

La Vía Más Fácil de Agüero

The name is accurate: four even pitches of 4a to 4b up a gently angled conglomerate spur, with a bolt every few metres. Made for a first multipitch or a first lead, and it finishes on top of the Agüero massif. Combine it with Tierra de Naide or Tierra de Todos on the same face.

4b4 pitches120 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Vía del Molondro

Ten short pitches of easy-angled Panticosa granite beside the Caldarés stream, twenty minutes from the car. Mostly friction slabs at 4b to 5a linked by walking-angle ground, with one polished bulge given 5b on the topo. A very gentle first granite multipitch, and a climbing approach to the walls above.

5b10 pitches220 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Arista Mowgli

An easy granite ridge above the Bozuelo meadows, low-angled and never exposed. Two smooth friction slabs at 5a, on pitches 1 and 6, are the only real difficulties; the rest is steps and short walls at grade 3 to 4. Ideal for a first multipitch, and you can step off rightwards onto ledges almost anywhere.

5a7 pitches200 m★★★

Spain · Western Aragonese Pyrenees (Lizara)

Placa del Estrato

Six pitches of easy limestone slab up the great folded stratum above the Lizara refuge, parallel to the unbolted Chimenea del Estrato. Friction and small edges at 4b to 4c, with runnels on the upper pitches, in a high pasture setting. A mountain day at a beginner's grade, with an hour's walk in.

4c6 pitches185 m★★★

Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)

Vía Anzas

A big, fully bolted mountain route straight up the middle of a wall of the Peña Foratata to its summit. Three technical corner pitches at 6b+ low down and a 6b and a 6a above the grass terrace, separated by easy transition pitches. Short pitches by design, a long descent, and a seasonal closure for bearded vultures until the end of July.

6b+14 pitches420 m★★★

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Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)

El Somni de Quimfer

Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.

6b+4 pitches160 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

Apocalipsis

Seven pitches up a steep south face at Frontales, sustained, physical and technical on very rough, unpolished limestone. The fifth pitch (6b+) is a thin slab and the sixth (6c) has a strenuous start and a crux on grey rock. It is one of the few 6c multipitch lines here with a clean abseil descent.

6c7 pitches195 m★★★

Spain · El Chorro

El Corazón que no Siente

Four pitches in a row at 6b+ to 6c+ on extremely rough limestone: technical water-pocket moves that are hard to read, then an athletic pitch up easy tufas to a hard pull over an overhang. Quiet and steep, with 6b+ obligatory.

6c+7 pitches200 m★★★

Spain · Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)

Chica Sputnik

Five very long pitches of old-school wall climbing: edges, flakes and water pockets where footwork counts more than strength. The 40 m fourth pitch, a steep slab beside a corner, is the highlight and the crux. Remote feeling, in the shade until early afternoon.

6c5 pitches200 m★★★

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Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)

Botri

The classic of Redován: ten pitches and 300 m of steady grade 5 with three steeper pitches on red rock. The eighth pitch, a traverse right into an overhanging corner above the orange cliffs, is the one people remember. Closed from January to June for nesting eagles.

6a+10 pitches300 m★★★

Spain · Montanejos

Monsieur

Seven varied pitches in two halves split by a big ledge: vertical walls and cracks below, then an overhanging red wall and a traverse on a carpet of sharp little spikes beneath giant roofs. In the sun from the morning, unpolished, with an easy walk down.

6b+7 pitches170 m★★★

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Sol Solet

Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.

6b+5 pitches200 m★★★

Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)

Espolón P.D.P.

A long, steady V+ spur to the summit of the Sierra de Callosa on exceptional rock. Many terraces allow a safe retreat, which makes it good mileage for building multipitch experience. Check local seasonal climbing restrictions in the Sierra de Callosa.

5+9 pitches500 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

La Caída de los Dioses

Four 35 m pitches starting 3 m left of the Espolón del Adamelo and finishing at the same belay. Harder and more sustained than its neighbour.

6b4 pitches140 m★★★

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Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)

Martola

Five 25 m pitches right of the deep groove on the Colorado, joining Anorexia for the last one. Mediocre rock low on the first pitch.

6a+5 pitches125 m★★★

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Spain · El Chorro

Mal de Ojo

A twelve-pitch line to the top of the Frontales face, starting right of the big Poema de Roca cave. The hard pitches are short, bouldery and athletic; the upper half turns to technical water-pocket climbing. One party found it less coherent than its neighbours but worth it for the summit.

7a12 pitches300 m★★★

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Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)

Tribo

Five pitches up the centre of La Pancha, the main wall above Redován. The second pitch climbs the middle of a red pillar with a polished crux on flat holds; the 40 m last pitch is an elegant slab that looks much harder than it is. Outside the bird closure that affects Botri.

6b+5 pitches150 m★★★