Pared de Bozuelo, Baños de Panticosa · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: high
An easy granite ridge above the Bozuelo meadows, low-angled and never exposed. Two smooth friction slabs at 5a, on pitches 1 and 6, are the only real difficulties; the rest is steps and short walls at grade 3 to 4. Ideal for a first multipitch, and you can step off rightwards onto ledges almost anywhere.
The route
Seven short pitches up a low-angled granite ridge on the left of the Llanos de Bozuelo, on the way from Baños de Panticosa to the Bachimaña refuge. The difficulties are isolated: a smooth friction slab in the middle of pitch 1 and another at the start of pitch 6, both 5a and both well protected. Between them the ridge is stepped and easy. The opening team designed it as part of a way to climb, not walk, up to the Bachimaña refuge, linking the Vía del Nano, Espolón Rebollón, this ridge and the Espolón del Pino. It has 18 logged ascents on camptocamp and consistently good reviews.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5a | 30 m | 6 bolts | A short wall of about 4 m with an awkward move, some 10 m of walking, then a smooth easy-angled slab with a thin friction move in the middle where you have to trust your feet. One writer suggests skipping the first little wall. |
| P2 | 4b | 30 m | 6 bolts | Steps to a pine, which you use to get over the small roof above it (the 'pine move'). Then easy-angled steps to the belay. |
| P3 | 4a | 25 m | 4 bolts | Steps, then a small slab after a pine. Belay at a pine. |
| P4 | 3a | 25 m | 3 bolts | A small, easy-angled crest. |
| P5 | 3b | 25 m | 7 bolts | Steps, left across an earthy gully, up a small slab, then a horizontal traverse left to the belay. One source gives 30 m. |
| P6 | 5a | 30 m | 6 bolts | A fine smooth slab with friction moves at the start, very well protected, finishing up an unusual 'wrinkled' slab. Belay at a big pine, which is better for communication than the next belay 5 m further on (R6 bis). |
| P7 | 4c | 30 m | 4 bolts | From R6 bis: a short vertical slab, easiest by its left edge, then an easy-angled friction slab with a small bulge and a last slab to the final belay at a pine. |
Getting there
Base is Baños de Panticosa (Balneario de Panticosa, about 1,640 m) at the head of the Tena valley. Park near the Casa de Piedra refuge; parties in 2024 report no trouble parking there.
35 to 45 min. Take the GR11 behind the Casa de Piedra refuge towards the Bachimaña refuge. After about 15 min you pass one of the Caldarés waterfalls; another climb brings you to the flat Llanos de Bozuelo. The ridge is clearly visible on the left. Follow cairns to its base, where a cairn marks the start.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
GPS line: one party's recorded GPS track of the whole day, including the climb and the descent. One party's recorded day in September 2024: walk-in from Baños de Panticosa (40 minutes), the climb, and the walk back down (40 minutes). Do not follow it blindly.
GPS line: oskarmorales · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0Parking
Baños de Panticosa (camptocamp access point)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 676807
Contains the route point, parking and a GPS line. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.76969, -0.23146 (crag) · Parking: 42.75957, -0.23461
Getting down
From the last belay follow the cairns to the right. A good path reaches the GR11 in about 10 min, above the Llanos de Bozuelo. Allow about 40 min back to the car park.
Retreat
Easy to bail
A Basque guide blog notes that you feel you could abandon the route at any moment by using the terraces and gullies on the right. The ridge is low-angled and never exposed, and the pitches are 25 to 30 m between bolted or tree belays.
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing at 1,850 to 2,050 m. A summer route: reports run from early July to early October. Friction slabs, so wait for dry rock.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys) are not available yet
What to carry
Camptocamp says a 50 m rope and 8 quickdraws plus belay gear, including two 60 cm slings to reduce drag. A Basque guide blog says 7 quickdraws; a 2023 party found 5 enough. Cams and nuts are not needed. Slings for the pine belays.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Arista Mowgli.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.