Multipitch Atlas

Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)

Spain

The Cabeçó d'Or (Cabezón de Oro) is a 1,209 m limestone mountain inland from El Campello, north of Alicante, with walls of 200 to 300 m above the show caves of Canelobre. The climbing is technical wall climbing on edges, flakes and water pockets. Most routes are traditional, and only a few of the modern lines are fully bolted. Busot is the nearest village; you park on the track just below the caves. The main walls stay in the shade until early afternoon, which makes them usable on warm days from autumn to spring.

Route
1
Grade span
6c
Longest route: Chica Sputnik
200 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or) are not available yet

1 route

Routes in Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)

The line of Chica Sputnik on the Cabeçó d'Or above Busot.

Spain · Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)

Chica Sputnik

Five very long pitches of old-school wall climbing: edges, flakes and water pockets where footwork counts more than strength. The 40 m fourth pitch, a steep slab beside a corner, is the highlight and the crux. Remote feeling, in the shade until early afternoon.

6c5 pitches200 m

Read the cautions

Local words

At the crag and in town

Spanish

cuerda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
chapa
bolt hanger
reunión
belay, anchor
largo
pitch
¡Pilla!
Take!
¡Dame cuerda!
Slack!
¡Reunión!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Catalan

corda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
xapa
bolt hanger
reunió
belay, anchor
llarg
pitch
Pilla!
Take!
Dona'm corda!
Slack!
Reunió!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Spain

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