Multipitch Atlas

Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Spain

Sa Gubia is a huge limestone gorge at the edge of the Serra de Tramuntana, just north of Palma off the Ma-11 Sóller road near Bunyola. It holds the island's best bolted multipitch, most of it in the 6a–6c range on walls up to about 200 m. The approach is a 40–45 min walk up a dry riverbed from the parking. Climb from autumn to spring, and don't leave valuables in the car.

Routes
3
Grade span
6a6b+
Longest route: Via Llum de Lluna
216 m

Where and when

Location and climate

When to go where

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Sa Gúbia, Bunyola · 400 m

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C121214172125282924201513
Mean daily low °C77810141720211815118
Rain days 1 mm or more776653237998

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 400 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

3 routes

Routes in Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

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Sa Gubia seen from the Sóller road, Mallorca

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Via Llum de Lluna

Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.

6b5 pitches216 m

Read the cautions

Sa Gubia seen from the Sóller road, Mallorca

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

La Ley del Deseo

A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.

6a6 pitches152 m

The wall of the Princesa sector at Sa Gubia just left of Sol Solet.

Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)

Sol Solet

Steep walls of beautifully sculpted grey and orange limestone immediately right of Princesa, even at 6b from bottom to top. Rockfax calls it more adventurous than its neighbour. Several belays are hanging, and the pitches can be split or linked in many ways.

6b+5 pitches200 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

All words and calls

Spanish

cuerda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
chapa
bolt hanger
reunión
belay, anchor
largo
pitch
¡Pilla!
Take!
¡Dame cuerda!
Slack!
¡Reunión!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Catalan

corda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
xapa
bolt hanger
reunió
belay, anchor
llarg
pitch
Pilla!
Take!
Dona'm corda!
Slack!
Reunió!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Spain

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