Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
La Ley del Deseo
A steady 6a sport line, the first bolt line right of the open-book corner on the Bomberos wall. A harder P2 variation ('Sonrisa Vertical') is available.
6a6 pitches152 m
Via Llum de Lluna
Sa Gubia – Sector Princesa · Mallorca (Sa Gubia) · Spain
Read the cautionsEasy to bailBolting confidence: high
Technical, sustained wall climbing on positive holds up the left side of the Princesa wall, ending in a memorable powerful finish.
- Hardest pitch
- 6b
- Pitches
- 5
- Length
- 216 m
- Approach
- 45 min
- Aspect
- –
- Not recorded
- Rope
- 1×70 m
Read before you go
Bolted and 6b at most on paper, but rests on one short topo entry, is sustained at 6a+ to 6b, and is easy to confuse with a neighbouring line.
The route
Overview
Via Llum de Lluna is a five-pitch sport route in the Princesa sector of Sa Gubia, near Bunyola. Every pitch is 6a or harder and the last two are 6b, so it is sustained throughout. Published information is sparse: the one page that could be read in full is a short theTopo entry. Treat it as a route for a confident 6b party and take the neighbouring-line warning below seriously.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
6a+6a+6a6b6b
| Pitch | Grade |
|---|---|
| P1 | 6a+ |
| P2 | 6a+ |
| P3 | 6a |
| P4 | 6b |
| P5 | 6b |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
From Palma drive north on the Ma-11 towards Sóller. Shortly after the junction where the Ma-2010 leaves for Bunyola there is a large car park by a restaurant. Park there. Mountain Project reports regular car break-ins: leave nothing in the car.
On foot · about 45 min
About 45 minutes from the car (Mountain Project). Cross the road, walk back past the roundabout and take the small road that leaves almost at right angles to the Ma-2010, past houses on the right. The tarmac turns to dirt; about 400 m later pass a house with stables on the left. Just beyond, a dry stream bed crosses the track: turn right up it and follow it for 800 m or more, watching for cairns. Right-hand forks lead in turn to Silicona, Excalibur, Isla Bonita, then Princesa. A search summary of the UKC page places the route left of the route Princesa.
Finding the route · 1 photo
OverviewSa Gubia from the Ma-11 Palma–Sóller road: it is the left-hand peak, with the gorge cut into its left side; Puig de Son Nasi and Puig de Son Poc are to its right. The car park is beside this road.Photo: Paucabot · CC BY-SA 3.0
Map of the walk-in
- Crag
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from thetopo.com / 27crags crag 442 (Sa Gubia)
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 39.69600, 2.67203 (crag)
Getting down
Descent
Abseil the route. theTopo says the abseil rings are painted red and the belay rings green. The figure of six abseils of 35 m comes from the UKC/Rockfax entry, which was seen only in a search summary.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Easy to bail
Yes. The route is equipped for abseiling and that is its normal descent: theTopo says the abseil rings are painted red and the belay rings green. A UKC/Rockfax search summary gives six abseils of 35 m, which fits a single 70 m rope. Detail is thin, so note where the red rings are as you climb.
- Retreat from
- From the red-ringed abseil stations down the line of the route. Six abseils for five pitches implies at least one station that is not a belay, and no source says where it is. It is not confirmed that every green belay also has a red abseil ring.
- Carry
- 1×70 m rope for 35 m abseils (the length is from an unconfirmed search summary). Knot the ends. Stay on the dark green bolts and red rings; Negra Flor, just right, has black bolts.
- Basis
- Part stated, part inferredtheTopo states the red abseil rings and green belay rings; the six 35 m abseils come from a UKC/Rockfax search summary, and the 70 m rope is inferred from that figure.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- Wrong-route risk: a logbook comment (search summary only) says Negra Flor, 6b, runs slightly to the right with black-painted bolts and is easily confused with this route, whose bolts are a faded dark green.
- Car break-ins at the Sa Gubia parking are reported as regular.
- theTopo's Sa Gubia page carries a climber's advice to check descent options well in advance on the multipitch routes.
Sun and weather
Conditions
Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall
No estimate: the wall's aspect is not recorded for this route.
Climate figures for Mallorca (Sa Gubia) are not available yet
What to carry
Gear
Not published in the sources read. Six 35 m abseils (unconfirmed search summary) would fit a single 70 m rope.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- Number not given in the sources
- Rope
- 1×70 m
- Helmet
- One each
- Abseil device and prusik
- The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Via Llum de Lluna.
Worth knowing
Tips
- Use the paint to navigate: green rings mark belays, red rings mark abseil stations.
- theTopo notes that climbing at Sa Gubia is not always permitted and asks you to leave room for residents and farm machinery when parking; check current access locally.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Only theTopo's short entry was readable in full. The UKC/Rockfax page (216 m, five pitches, six 35 m abseils) could not be read in full and is quoted from a search summary, so length and abseil details are unconfirmed.
- Six abseils for five pitches implies at least one intermediate station; no readable source explains where.
- The notes here about a 'powerful finish' and spaced bolts on the easy slab of pitch 5 could not be verified from any page read in full.
Provenance
Sources
- theTopo – Via Llum de LlunaUsed for: pitch grades, ring colours
- theTopo – Sa GubiaUsed for: access etiquette, descent advice
- Mountain Project – Sa GubiaUsed for: driving, parking, approach, break-ins
- UKC/UKH Logbook – Via Llum de Lluna (search summary only; page not read in full)Used for: unconfirmed length, abseils, Negra Flor warning
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.