Multipitch Atlas

Montserrat

Spain

A serrated massif of rounded conglomerate towers 50 km north-west of Barcelona, climbed on pebbles and pockets, with bolting that is often generous on the hard moves and spaced on easy ground. The Gorros towers above the monastery are the obvious first stop: reach them by car or by the Cremallera rack railway from Monistrol, then walk or take the Sant Joan funicular. Spring and autumn are best. South faces suit sunny winter days and the north faces of the Gorros suit warm days.

Routes
5
Grade span
5bto6a+
Longest route: Integral d'en Pitu i la Nuri
185 m

Where and when

Location and climate

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Gorra Frígia, Gorros sector

Climate figures for Montserrat are not available yet

5 routes

Routes in Montserrat

West side of the Gorros sector, Montserrat

Spain · Montserrat

Integral d'en Pitu i la Nuri

A modern linkup over two pinnacles on excellent conglomerate. Overhanging 6a and 6a+ walls alternate with easy 'potato-field' slabs. The new bolting makes it one of the most reassuring long lines in the massif.

6a+5 pitches185 m

Gorra Marinera, the Magdalenes, Gorra Frígia and Trencabarrals, Montserrat

Spain · Montserrat

Via Sargantanes

A popular first Montserrat multipitch close to the monastery. Steep pebble walls at 5b are split by easy slabs, finishing on an airy summit cap.

5b6 pitches145 m

Read the cautions

Gorra Frígia and Magdalena Superior, south-west faces, Montserrat

Spain · Montserrat

Via del Carles

A straightforward line up the 'Phrygian cap' visible from the monastery. Only the short vertical step on pitch 3 is sustained. It is a good route for learning Montserrat pebble technique and has a summit cross with a big view. The approach takes about 10 min from the Sant Joan funicular top.

5c5 pitches140 m

North-west face of the Gorra Frígia (foreground right), Montserrat

Spain · Montserrat

Via Stromberg

A shady north-face outing that suits warm days. Steady 5c pebble climbing leads to a short overhang crux (6a, or 5c/A0) and the summit cross.

6a4 pitches120 m

Gorra Frígia and Magdalena Superior seen from the south-west, Montserrat

Spain · Montserrat

98 Octanos

An exposed, airy line with unusually good holes and jugs for Montserrat, shaded in the afternoon. The 6a pitch is a sustained vertical 20 m. Going straight up instead of following the line is closer to 6b+.

6a4 pitches140 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

Spanish

cuerda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
chapa
bolt hanger
reunión
belay, anchor
largo
pitch
¡Pilla!
Take!
¡Dame cuerda!
Slack!
¡Reunión!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Catalan

corda
rope
cinta exprés
quickdraw
xapa
bolt hanger
reunió
belay, anchor
llarg
pitch
Pilla!
Take!
Dona'm corda!
Slack!
Reunió!
Safe, I'm at the belay

Spain

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