Sierra de Bernera south face, Lizara · Western Aragonese Pyrenees (Lizara) · Spain
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Six pitches of easy limestone slab up the great folded stratum above the Lizara refuge, parallel to the unbolted Chimenea del Estrato. Friction and small edges at 4b to 4c, with runnels on the upper pitches, in a high pasture setting. A mountain day at a beginner's grade, with an hour's walk in.
The route
The route climbs the slab beside the chimney that follows the characteristic stratum on the south face of the Sierra de Bernera. After an introductory pitch up a blocky channel, five pitches of slab follow: it steepens twice on pitch 2, where friction becomes essential, then lies back and offers small edges and parallel runnels. Nothing is harder than 4c and the pitches are 25 to 35 m. From the last belay a 20 m traverse protected by two bolts and a fixed rope leads to the walk-off. Documentation is thin: one detailed camptocamp page and one trip report, both from 2021.
In pictures
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 3c | 35 m | 3 bolts | A channel of stacked blocks, then a corner and steps. Three bolts and one thread. |
| P2 | 4c | 30 m | 9 bolts | More steps, then a slab that steepens in two stages, where precise friction is essential. |
| P3 | 4b | 30 m | 6 bolts | The steeper friction slab continues to the second bolt, then lies back and changes from friction to small edges. |
| P4 | 4b | 30 m | 6 bolts | Easy-angled slab on small edges, then two parallel runnels. |
| P5 | 4c | 35 m | 8 bolts | More slab: a runnel first, then friction, easing to a very low angle. |
| P6 | 4a | 25 m | 4 bolts | Easy-angled slab to the sixth belay. From here a barely inclined 20 m traverse (grade II, two bolts, a static rope as a handrail for 15 m) leads to belay R6 bis. |
Getting there
From Puente la Reina de Jaca take the A-176 and then the road through Aragüés del Puerto to its end at the Lizara refuge. Park near the refuge at about 1,510 m.
About 1 hour. From the car park take the GR 11.1 towards the Collado del Bozo. At about 1,840 m leave it and head for the scree cone below the chimney; climb the cone to the foot of the chimney, where the route starts.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
GPS line: a line of the whole day, including the climb and the descent drawn by its source, not a recorded track. Line attached to the camptocamp route page; it is identical to the track on janic's outing of 28 September 2021 (https://www.camptocamp.org/outings/1353748). A 7 km loop from the Lizara refuge: walk-in, climb and return. No elevation data. Do not follow it blindly.
GPS line: camptocamp contributors (janic) · CC BY-SA 3.0Parking
Refugio de Lizara (camptocamp waypoint 725687)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 1353704
Contains the route point, parking and a GPS line. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.76735, -0.60657 (crag) · Parking: 42.76286, -0.63360
Getting down
From R6 bis either climb the upper rib directly (a 15 m overhanging start given 6a+), or, as most will, follow the rib along an easy descending traverse marked in red for about 100 m, then climb rocks and grass to cross above the rib at about 1,980 m. A cairned and marked path leads down to the Collado del Bozo and the GR 11.1 back to the Lizara refuge. The 2021 party took about 2 hours for the route and just under 5 hours car to car.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Camptocamp states that the belays are chained and fitted with rings so that you can abseil. The pitches are 25 to 35 m and run in a nearly straight line up the slab.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-facing at about 1,900 to 2,090 m. The neighbouring chimney route is described by the openers as being in shade in the morning. A late September 2021 ascent was done in cool, overcast weather. Friction slab: do not go when wet.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Western Aragonese Pyrenees (Lizara) are not available yet
What to carry
9 quickdraws. A single rope is enough for the walk-off; take two ropes or a long single if you want the option of abseiling the 30 to 35 m pitches. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Placa del Estrato.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Around 4c · about 6 pitches
France · Calanques
An oddity: easy slabs and a long water-worn runnel up a dome of puddingstone above the sea, reached by abseiling into a cove from the Mugel park. The climbing is grade 3 and 4 on surprisingly solid pebbles. It was fully rebolted in 2024 and is a popular first multipitch.
4c6 pitches220 m
Italy · Sardinia
The easiest line on the Capo Caccia sea cliff: six pitches of 4b to 4c on pocketed, sharply sculpted limestone above the open sea. You abseil in from the top and climb out. The first two pitches are vegetated; the climbing proper starts on the pitch 3 slab.
4c6 pitches145 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Italy · Aosta Valley
A six-pitch arete of well-featured gneiss that is steeper than the grade suggests, with two short bolted traverses. Recent parties recommend it as a first multipitch: good rock, close bolts and a quick path down.
4c6 pitches225 m
Austria · Salzkammergut
Five easy pitches up an edge above the Wolfgangsee, mostly UIAA 4 with a few moves of 5-. A slab low down and an exposed step across a cleft on pitch 4 are the memorable bits. A popular first multipitch.
4c5 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
