Multipitch Atlas

Ursi

Pegote Montaner (Macizo del Pisón), Riglos · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) · Spain

Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium

A way up the Pisón at 6a+ if you accept two pitches of pulling on bolts at the start. The seventh pitch is a contender for the best corner at Riglos. Take care with the rock on pitches 3 and 4.

Mallo Pisón above the village of Riglos, with El Puro on its leftPhoto: Marc Baysselance · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

Photo

Mallo Pisón above the village of Riglos, with El Puro on its leftPhoto: Marc Baysselance · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
Hardest pitch
6a+
Pitches
10
Length
270 m
Approach
10 min
Aspect
N
North-facing
Rope
2×60 m
Read before you go

Fully bolted since 2015, but the first two pitches are bolt-ladder aid (6b+/6c+ free), the rock still needs care and a perched block remains on pitch 9.

The route

Overview

A 1961 line up the shady north face of the Pegote Montaner, a tower of the Macizo del Pisón above the Circo de Verano, fully re-equipped with bolts in 2015. Two short bolt-ladder pitches (aid, or 6b+ and 6c+ free) lead to a sustained run of walls, cracks, chimneys and corners at 6a to 6a+, including a 40 m corner that is a candidate for the best at Riglos. It is closely bolted and atmospheric, but the rock still needs care in places and the route is far less travelled than the south-facing classics. A good choice for a hot day if you accept the aid start.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P1A015 mStraight up the bolt ladder: aid from the ground, then some free climbing (V) to the belay. 6b+ free according to Javier Oliván's topo.
P2A025 mA move of aid off the belay, a few easy free metres, then aid past a cave and up a vertical crack (A0 and V+ on Camptocamp). The rock at the end is still delicate. 6c+ free according to Oliván.
P35a10 mShort traverse left (grade V), starting slightly below the belay, on rock that needs testing.
P46a+20 mStraight up a wall with some moss at the start. The rock is sound overall but hollow in places and needs care.
P56a+35 mA sustained crack, vertical at first and easing a little in the last third. The equippers' topo gives 6a+; Camptocamp gives 6a and 30 m.
P66a35 mA fine gully-chimney, mostly V/V+ with a single move of 6a; a few hand jams help. Camptocamp grades it V+.
P76a35 mA corner in the same style, more sustained than it looks, with the 6a limited to one move according to the equippers.
P86a+40 mAn excellent, very continuous and steep corner, the highlight of the route. Camptocamp gives this pitch as 50 m.
P9430 mUp a slanting wall on poor rock at first (grade IV, with earth and a fixed rope), then exit right through niches before a large cave and traverse horizontally to the belay. A big perched block sits by the traverse and has been left in place. Two ringed bolts in the cave mark the original belay.
P104+25 mA wall of doubtful rock (IV+), closely bolted for that reason, to the summit cable. It could not be cleaned further because stones would fall onto the routes below. Use long slings against drag. Camptocamp's description stops at R9 and omits this pitch.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Riglos village (Las Peñas de Riglos) is about 45 km north-west of Huesca. From Huesca drive to Ayerbe, follow the A-132 towards Jaca and turn right after a few kilometres onto the small road to Riglos; from Pamplona or France (Somport, Jaca, Puente la Reina de Jaca) take the A-132 towards Ayerbe and turn left shortly after Murillo de Gállego. Parking is in the large pay car parks at the village entrance (3 EUR a day for cars, 6 EUR for vans in 2026). The refugio is the modern building on the left as you enter the village; there is a campsite at Murillo de Gállego.

On foot · about 10 min

About 10 minutes from the village. Take the path towards the Circo del Firé (Circo de Verano). About 30 m after the direct start of the Puro, turn right up the gully on a cairned path that continues steeply through box scrub to the foot of the wall. Turn left along the base, passing the route Sendero Límite, and continue 50 to 100 m to the start.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

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The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

42.35056, -0.72811

Point from camptocamp waypoint 43230

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

The equippers recommend walking off from the top: follow cairns down the massif to a gap on the left, where a chain and then a fixed rope help on the steep steps, and join the descent path used for the Mallo Frechín and Mallo Cuchillo routes. They advise this over abseiling because of the risk of knocking stones towards Los Volados. The alternative described on Camptocamp is to abseil 35 m from R9 to the ridge, follow it to the Pisón col, cross to the north side by the handrail cable and make three abseils of 56 m, 45 m and 59 m to the foot of the face, then follow the path north along the wall back to the approach path near Sendero Límite. All belays have rings and abseiling the route is possible.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

Yes: all belays have rings and the sources say abseiling the route is possible. The equippers advise against abseiling as a descent, though, because stones are easily knocked towards Los Volados and parties below. Near the top it is easier to go on than down: from R9 a 35 m abseil reaches the ridge and the Pisón col.

Retreat from
Any belay, in principle. Pitch 3 is a short traverse left (10 m), so abseils from above it do not drop straight onto the first two aid pitches. From R9 the recommended way off is the 35 m abseil to the ridge, then the Pisón col and three abseils of 56, 45 and 59 m down the north side.
Point of no return
R9, by the sources' own advice: retreat from there is easier by the 35 m abseil to the ridge than by descending to R8. Pitch 9 ends with a horizontal traverse past a perched block.
Carry
2×60 m. Pitches are up to 40 m (50 m on camptocamp for pitch 8) and the north-side abseils from the Pisón col are 56 and 59 m. No gear needs to be left.
Basis
Stated in the sourcesThe equippers' topo and camptocamp state that all belays have rings, that abseiling the route is possible but discouraged for stonefall, and that from R9 the abseil to the ridge is the easier retreat.

Safety

Hazards

  • The first two pitches are aid on bolts (A0/Ae); free they are 6b+ and 6c+.
  • Rock quality: cleaned in 2015 but still needing care, with mossy and hollow sections on pitches 3 and 4 (a 2016 party found pitches 4 and 5 dirty and broken), delicate rock at the end of pitch 2 and doubtful rock on the last pitch.
  • A large perched block remains beside the traverse on pitch 9.
  • Stones dislodged from the last pitch and from abseils can fall onto parties and routes below.
  • The north-side abseils from the Pisón col are 56 m, 45 m and 59 m: they need two 60 m ropes.
  • Little traffic: Camptocamp has a single trip report (October 2019), so do not expect clean, chalked rock.

Sun and weather

Conditions

North-facing and in shade all day: recommended for hot weather and cold otherwise. Exposed to wind. The equippers suggest about 5 hours for the climb.

Usual season · Feb to May, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · N-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

Climate figures for Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) are not available yet

What to carry

Gear

20 to 22 quickdraws plus belay gear, and one or two aiders (étriers) for pitches 1 and 2. Long slings for the last pitch. 2×60 m ropes if you plan to use the 56 m and 59 m abseils on the north side of the Pisón. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
22
Rope
2×60 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Ursi.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Bolts are very close: you can often clip only every other one.
  • From R9 retreating is easier by the 35 m abseil to the ridge and Pisón col than by descending to R8.
  • The equipper sees no major obstacle to linking pitches 1 and 2, apart from rope drag at the cave and the number of quickdraws needed.
  • Stones can be trundled safely from most of the route only when nobody is below; never from the last pitch.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch count: the equippers' topo has 10 pitches and 270 m to the summit; Camptocamp describes 9 pitches and 250 m, ending at R9 and abseiling from there; Oliván's free topo has 8 pitches and 280 m by linking. The 10-pitch version is used here.
  • Grades: pitch 5 is 6a+ on the equippers' topo and 6a on Camptocamp; pitch 6 is 6a against V+. Free, Oliván gives 6b+, 6c+, 6b, 6a, 6a, 6b, IV+, V.
  • Pitch 8 length: 40 m (equippers) against 50 m (Camptocamp).
  • Descent: the equippers and Oliván recommend walking off; Camptocamp describes the abseils via the Pisón col. Both are given, with the equippers' advice first.
  • Quickdraws and aiders: 22 quickdraws and 2 aiders (equippers), 20 quickdraws and 1 aider (Camptocamp), 20 quickdraws (Oliván).
  • Location and aspect: listed here under Mallo Pisón; both blogs place the route on the north face of the Pegote Montaner in the Macizo del Pisón, Circo de Verano.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.