Multipitch Atlas

Stargate

Ilinac · Omiš · Croatia

Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium

A long, varied line of slabs, corners and ledgy traverses up the middle of Ilinac. MP and plezanje.net count the pitches differently (7 vs 8) because they split the short easy top pitches differently.

The Ilinac wall above the Cetina near OmišPhoto: jeanluca · CC BY-SA 3.0

Photo

The Ilinac wall above the Cetina near OmišPhoto: jeanluca · CC BY-SA 3.0
Hardest pitch
6b
Pitches
8
Length
235 m
Approach
20 min
Aspect
SW
South-west-facing
Rope
2×50 m
Read before you go

Fully bolted with no trad gear needed, but there is a loose block on the original crux, a reported loose bolt, a runout final pitch and some tree or chainless belays.

The route

Overview

Stargate is a long, wandering line on Ilinac above the Cetina at Omiš, starting just right of Rambo. Slabs, short corners and a flake lead to a scrappy middle section with a long ledge traverse, then a harder crux pitch and easy ground to the top. It is bolted throughout and repeaters say no cams or nuts are needed, but it is rougher than Rambo: bushy ledges, some tree belays, a reported loose bolt and a loose block on the original crux. The crux is 6a+ by the original line or about 6b by a bolted bypass on the left. Several repeaters found the guidebook pitch grades too low.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P15b+37 mSlabby face past four bolts, then more bolts to an anchor on a ledge. Mountain Project gives 5a.
P25b37 mA short left-facing corner, then a move onto a flake below a slabby face. One repeater found an awkward move of about 6a just above the belay.
P35b+40 mUp and right to a right-facing corner at the right end of a big grey bulge; climb it past bolts and a couple of old pegs to a ledge with two bolts. Mountain Project gives 5c. The abseil anchor for the descent is on the ledge to the left.
P45a20 mScrappy pitch up to a ledge and an anchor. A commenter suggests skipping this anchor and continuing hard right past two bolts to a two-bolt belay with no chain or rings, to get the traverse done here.
P56a+/6b–The crux. The original line is 6a+ and has a dangerous loose block. A separately bolted bypass on the left goes at about 6b and rejoins the same anchor. A loose bolt was reported on this pitch in November 2021.
P65b+–Slabs and a water groove. One repeater thought it harder than the crux pitch and suggested about 6a+.
P74c–Easy ground.
P84b–Short finish: two widely spaced bolts get you over the top.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Omiš is on the coast about 20 km south-east of Split. From the centre drive north-east on Mosorska cesta along the north bank of the Cetina. After about 1 km take the right fork (left goes to Gata) and continue 0.9 km to the red-brick parking areas by the river, about 50 m before the gated hydroelectric plant.

On foot · about 20 min

About 20 min. Walk 30–50 m up the road to the concrete memorial with a trail map, follow the trail to the shrine of St Leopold over the footbridges, then take the climbers' path up and left. Go steeply up right just before an abandoned building and follow the cliff base to the memorial plaque at the start of Rambo. Stargate is the next full route to the right: a grey slab with four bolts above a small clearing. Start on the right line: there is an unlisted bolted route between Rambo and Stargate that ends after three pitches in the middle of the wall.

Finding the route · 2 photos

  • OverviewThe Ilinac wall seen from below (photographer's title: "the Ilinac wall"), May 2024. A white cross stands among the trees at the lower left.Photo: Yannick Guerillot · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
  • Walk-inThe small memorial at the start of the neighbouring route Rambo as it looked in June 2015. Stargate is the next full route to the right of it.Photo: jeanluca · CC BY-SA 3.0

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

43.45889, 16.70411

Point from Mountain Project area 114353022 (Ilinac)

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Either abseil the route or walk off. Abseil: Mountain Project says two ropes; note that the abseil anchor at the top of pitch 3 is on the ledge to the left of the belay. The line is bushy, so ropes snag and can pull rocks down. One party abseiled with a single 70 m rope and called it unpleasant but workable. Walk off: from the top a path leads down to the road back to Omiš; one party used it, another could not find it quickly. No time is given for Stargate; the walk-off from neighbouring Rambo is quoted at about 45 min.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail with caveats

You can retreat by abseil, most easily from the first three or four pitches, which the sources suggest as a short outing in its own right. The line is bushy and ledgy, so ropes snag and can pull stones down. Higher up it is less tidy: some belays are on trees and the belay after the pitch 4 traverse is two bolts with no chain or rings.

Retreat from
R1 to R4 are the documented turn-round points. At the top of pitch 3 the abseil anchor is on the ledge to the left of the belay, not at the belay itself. From the top a path walks off to the Omiš road.
Point of no return
Not stated by any source. By inference, once you have done the rightward ledge traverse and the pitch 5 crux, the remaining pitches are 5b+, 4c and 4b and the belays are trees or unlinked bolts, so finishing and walking off is likely simpler than abseiling.
Carry
2×50 m ropes (one party managed on a single 70 m and called it unpleasant). Slings, a couple of maillons or old karabiners for tree and unlinked-bolt belays.
Basis
Part stated, part inferredMountain Project and its comments state the two-rope abseil, the offset R3 anchor, the snagging, the tree and unchained belays and the three-to-four-pitch option; the point of no return and the gear to leave are inferred.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Loose block on the original 6a+ crux line of pitch 5. The left-hand bypass (about 6b, own bolts) was added because of it.
  • Loose bolt reported on the crux pitch (Mountain Project comment, November 2021). Current state unknown.
  • The final pitch has only two, runout bolts.
  • Some belays are on trees, and the belay after the pitch 4 traverse is two bolts without chain or rings.
  • Bushy, ledgy descent line: ropes get stuck and can dislodge rocks. Check below before pulling.
  • Route finding at the start: an unlisted three-pitch bolted route lies between Rambo and Stargate. The Mountain Project page was also flagged by a commenter for confusion over the route's name and position.
  • Pitch grades are widely felt to be undergraded (pitch 2 about 6a, pitch 6 about 6a+).

Sun and weather

Conditions

Ilinac faces south-west to west at 180–320 m. In summer the wall is in shade until about 11:00–11:30 and then in sun until about 18:00. The sources read do not state a best season.

Usual season · Mar to May, Oct to Nov

Sun on the wall · SW-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C891215192427272218139
Mean daily low °C124812161819151173
Rain days 1 mm or more11101012107558111312
Sunshine hours a day6.37.79.410.612.213.213.612.910.68.76.55.9

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 333 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

12 to 15 quickdraws (plezanje.net lists 12, Mountain Project about 15), shoulder-length slings and spare karabiners for tree belays and extending. Two 50 m ropes for the abseils; parties have also climbed it on a single 70 m. Helmet. No cams or nuts needed according to a 2022 repeater.

Checklist

Quickdraws
14
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Slings
Mentioned for retreat
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Stargate.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • You can climb just the first three or four pitches for a route of about 5b/5c and abseil from there.
  • Do the long rightward ledge traverse as part of pitch 4, not at the start of pitch 5, to cut rope drag on the crux.
  • Stargate is not in the free 2019 Omiš guide PDF, so bring another topo.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Pitch count: plezanje.net and the guidebook quoted on Mountain Project have 8 pitches; the Mountain Project description has 7; one party made it 9 by splitting the traverse. This entry follows 8.
  • Pitch grades: plezanje.net has 5b+, 5b, 5b+, 5a, 6a+, 5b+, 4c, 4b (route 6a+/6b); the quoted guidebook has 5b, 5b, 5c, 5a, 6b, 5b+, 4c, 4b; Mountain Project has 5a, 5b, 5c, 5a, then 'supposedly' 5b and 6a. Pitch lengths are from Mountain Project and only exist for pitches 1–4.
  • Overall grade: 6a on Mountain Project, 6a+ original or 6b by the bypass on plezanje.net. For planning, treat it as 6b or 6a+ with a loose block.
  • Descent: the Mountain Project description says abseil with two ropes; two commenters report a walk-off from the top and one abseiled on a single 70 m.
  • Quickdraws: 12 (plezanje.net) against about 15 (Mountain Project); the 14 listed here sits between.
  • Length: 240 m (plezanje.net) against 229 m (Mountain Project).

Provenance

Sources

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Read the cautions

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Read the cautions

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.