Plage Mansour Gauche · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
Seven moderate pitches up the big wall on the left at the gorge entrance, mostly 5c with three pitches of 6a to 6a+. The equippers describe it as an easy and very beautiful multi-pitch; the last pitch starts steeply on very abrasive rock and can be aided.
The route
Tu iras is one of the seven multi-pitch routes on Mansour Gauche, the wall immediately left of the gorge entrance that also holds Tiwira and Cœur de Palmier. It was bolted in 2015 by the local Aventures Verticales team as a long moderate outing: about 280 m in seven pitches, none harder than about 6a+, and the last one possible with a pull on a bolt. The route is documented only by the people who equipped it, so the detail here is thinner than for its neighbours. At the time of that description the only way down was by abseiling the route.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6a | Beautiful climbing on good rock with a very short, well-protected traverse. Given 5.10a. |
| P2 | 5c | A short, fairly easy pitch. Given 5.9. |
| P3 | 5c | Continuous and sustained but never really hard. Given 5.9+. |
| P4 | 5c | A slightly physical start, then even climbing; stay left of the bolt on the slab. Given 5.9. |
| P5 | 5c | Varied climbing on a slightly wandering line; move a little right on the steepest part. Given 5.9. |
| P6 | 6a+ | The start is easier than it looks and the finish is easy. Given 5.10b. |
| P7 | 6a+ | A sustained start, well protected so that it can be aided (5.10b/A0), on very abrasive rock. |
Getting there
Base yourself at the mouth of the gorge near Tizgui, about 15 km from Tinghir. Marrakech is the nearest international airport, roughly 7 hours by road; buses (CTM, Supratours) run Marrakech to Tinghir, then take a taxi or shared taxi up to the gorge. You do not need a car once there: the sectors are within walking distance of the gorge-entrance hotels and guesthouses. For this sector there is a car park on the left at the gorge entrance, just before the first hotel.
A few minutes. Mansour Gauche is the wall immediately on the left at the gorge entrance, on the right bank of the river behind the hotel and the small shops under the olive trees. Either cross the river by the last small shop, or walk up the road into the gorge, cross the bridge and come back along the foot of the wall on the low wall of the irrigation channel. Tu iras is route 8 from the left: it starts a little to the right in the sector, about 50 m along, up some big rocks at the foot of the wall.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 520783 (Mansour Gauche); the Mountain Project sector point lies about 250 m to the north-east
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.58237, -5.59322 (crag)
Getting down
By abseil down the route: at the time of the equippers' description this was the only way off. Do not skip the first belay you reach on the way down (the penultimate belay of the route), or friction makes the ropes very hard to pull. A shared abseil line for the routes finishing in this part of the wall was planned; whether it exists now is not known.
Retreat
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal and only descent, and there is an anchor at each belay station. The one stated caveat is not to skip the penultimate belay.
Safety
Sun and weather
East facing, base at about 1,650 m. The wall has sun from about 08:00 to 15:00 according to the local topo image; in December a party on the neighbouring Tiwira was in the sun from 10:00 and in shade by 15:00. Wind in the gorge is often cold but barely reaches the wall.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 12 | 13 | 17 | 21 | 25 | 29 | 33 | 32 | 27 | 22 | 16 | 13 |
| Mean daily low °C | −1 | 0 | 4 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 20 | 19 | 15 | 10 | 4 | 1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 2 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 0 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 2 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1641 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
13 quickdraws. Two ropes for the abseils: the length is not stated, and the neighbouring Tiwira is abseiled on 2×50 m. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Tu iras.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
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Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
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Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 6a+ · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
An airy, mostly left-rising traverse that spirals round the Pedra Longa sea stack to its summit, on water-runnelled grey walls and pocketed white rock right above the sea. It has become one of the most popular routes in Sardinia, so expect queues.
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Committing
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A good first route at Riglos: seven sustained 6a pitches on the spur of the Frechín, with a grandstand view of the Visera. Manage rope drag on the wandering first pitch.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
A newer pillar line with a pretty 45 m slab to start, a single interesting 6a+ crux on P4, and a final orange corner. It makes a good step up from Mignonette.
6a+7 pitches180 m
Greece · Crete
An accessible gorge multi-pitch with views over the canyon, the sea and the little Orthodox chapel. It has steep juggy walls, a short traverse onto an arête and a corner with a jammed block (take care). The rock is less sticky higher up.
6a+7 pitches200 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.