Paroi du Levant · Todra Gorge (Todgha) · Morocco
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
A wandering nine-pitch line up the left end of the big wall above Tizgui, mostly 5b to 6a with a superb steep corner on pitch 6. Well bolted but with a mountain feel: it is little travelled, the rock is very abrasive and not fully cleaned, and the belays and the walk-off take some finding.
Generously bolted, but the belays are unlinked and easy to miss, there is loose rock, and the walk-off is hard to find.
The route
Tifégha ('snake' in Amazigh) snakes up the far left side of the Paroi du Levant, the first big wall on the left before the gorge. Most of it is 5b to 6a, with two harder passages that can be aided on the bolts: a 6b move on pitch 1 (5c/A0) and the 6c corner of pitch 6 (6b/A0). Reports agree that the bolting is generous and the corner pitch is excellent, and also that the line is disjointed, with walking sections, awkwardly placed belays and loose blocks. Treat it as a small mountain route that happens to be bolted.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b | Mostly 5b with two moves of 6b, or 5c/A0. |
| P2 | 4 | A link pitch. The 2026 party found it to be 15 to 20 m of walking to a belay slightly left in easy-angled slabs, and noted the paper topo treats it differently. |
| P3 | 5b | Abrasive climbing that ends with a traverse left. The belay sits higher than the start of the next pitch. |
| P4 | 5c/6a | Starts below the belay: it is easiest to descend 3 to 4 m and belay from the flat ground. The first bolt is hidden in a small bush about 5 m up. Two parties missed the belay at the top and ran pitches 4 and 5 together. |
| P5 | 5c/6a | Belay on the left on a ledge at the foot of a corner. Reported in 2026: a second belay 10 m left along the ledge, better placed for pitch 6. |
| P6 | 6c | The pitch of the route: a steep to slightly overhanging corner climbed delicately on bridging. Given 6c, or 6b/A0 with one 6c move; a 2026 party found it sustained 6b and never identified the 6c move. |
| P7 | 5c/6a | The belay is on the right, off the line of bolts and hidden under a bush. One 2026 leader missed it and belayed on one bolt and cams. |
| P8 | 5c | Easier climbing on rough rock. |
| P9 | 5b | To the plateau, with a small slab crux at the exit. Pitches 8 and 9 are often moved together on. |
Getting there
Base yourself at the mouth of the gorge near Tizgui, about 14 km from Tinghir. The gorge-entrance guesthouses are a few minutes on foot from the wall and there is a car park on the left at the gorge entrance, just before the first hotel. Tinghir is reached by road or bus from Marrakech; a taxi covers the last stretch. For this wall you can also start from the old village of Tizgui, 400 m before the gorge.
30 minutes. From Tizgui take the path that starts above the Berber museum in the old village and passes under the red and white pylon for about 15 minutes, then follow faint tracks for another 15. Or from the gorge entrance follow the foot of the cliff from the Mansour sector for about 30 minutes; a 2026 party found no real path that way. The route is at the far left end of the wall, marked by a faded white arrow. A newer route starts even further left, so check you are on the arrow.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
GPS line: one party's recorded GPS track of the whole day, including the climb and the descent. One party's recorded day in May 2026: they approached along the foot of the cliffs from the Mansour side (about 30 minutes, no real path found), climbed the route, then spent an hour finding the way from the top to the path and another hour walking back to the village. Do not follow it blindly.
GPS line: Armand, Anna Tassaux · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0Point from Mountain Project area 111993178 (Paroi du Levant)
Contains the route point and a GPS line. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 31.57987, -5.59387 (crag)
Getting down
On foot, and not obvious. The camptocamp page lists three options. (1) From the plateau go left to a large gorge with whitened rocks in its bed, fitted with nomad stairways, and descend it towards the red and white pylon above the old village; a 2026 party who looked at this judged it exposed and not something to try in the dark. (2) Climb west to the ridge above, follow it south-south-west, then drop west to the path back to the village; the 2026 party did this in about 2 hours and uploaded a GPS track. (3) Abseil another route on the wall such as The first of Ela, which has linked belays with maillons to R5. The sector page gives 45 minutes to 1 hour 30 for the walk-offs.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Retreat is possible but awkward. The belays are bolted but not linked and a 2026 party judged them unsuitable for abseiling, so you would leave maillons and cord. The line wanders, with traverses on pitches 3 and 5 and walking sections, which makes abseils diagonal. One 2023 party did abseil from the top.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
East facing at about 1900 m. The sector topo shows sun from 8:00 to 13:30 and a 2023 party notes shade from 13:00, so it is an afternoon route in warm weather and a morning one in winter. It is sheltered from a west wind. The crag page lists February to June as the best period.
Sun on the wall · E-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Moroccan time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Todra Gorge (Todgha) are not available yet
What to carry
Quickdraws for bolted pitches of unstated length; one party strung 60 m of rope linking pitches 4 and 5 and ran out of gear, so take plenty and some long ones. Rope length is not specified by any source. Slings and a couple of maillons for the unlinked belays. Headtorch. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Voie Tifégha.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The classic of the gorge, first climbed in 1977. Sustained and physical 6a climbing up cracks, corners and short bulges on the big pillar at the gorge entrance. The first pitch is the 6a+ crux, straight off the ground. Watch for loose blocks on the last pitch, shared with Chibania.
6a+9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
A long, moderate line above the Mansour palm grove at the upstream end of the gorge. Mostly steady 5c with a 6a crack to start and a harder, very abrasive finish. Big views up the valley.
6b7 pitches300 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Eight pitches up the middle of the Levant wall, with the 6a on the first pitch and steady 5a–5c above. Morning sun. Camptocamp rates the commitment a little higher than the gorge-floor routes because of the length.
6a8 pitches320 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
The longest route in the gorge: 550 m of easy ridge climbing on the left as you leave the narrows. Sold locally as the beginner's first big bolted route. The first three or four pitches are in shade with a 7 am start; after that you are in the sun.
5c13 pitches550 m
Read the cautions
Around 6c · about 9 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
A 300 m pillar on the 'Dolomite of Sardinia': a hard, smooth first pitch in a north-facing gully, long grey slabs and walls, a demanding technical crux on pitch 6, then exposed climbing on the crest of the pillar on big sculpted holds. Mountain atmosphere with sport protection.
6c9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6c8 pitches250 m
Croatia · Paklenica
Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.
6c8 pitches220 m
Austria · Ötztal
Steep, exposed gneiss left of the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata, finding a way between huge roofs. The cruxes are the steep slabs of pitches 5 and 6 (6c). Stiffly graded, and the abseil descent is not for everyone.
6c8 pitches195 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.