Spijonik main wall · Spijonik (Visočica) · Bosnia and Herzegovina
Read the cautionsBail with caveats
A new four-pitch sport route on the tallest section of a remote limestone wall high on the Visočica range, with corners, cracks, small roofs and bulges. It is sustained in the 6a to 6b+ range, and the last pitch has a 6c crux: an overhanging, wide block that you pass with slaps and a knee bar.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point about 1900 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point plus the height of the route).
Fully bolted with glue-ins and 2-bolt anchors according to the equippers, but it is a 2024 route known from a single source, on a remote crag with no reported repeats and an undocumented descent.
6cVIII-5.11b4 pitches · 100 mBail with caveats
Chasing a Dream climbs the tallest continuous section of the Spijonik main wall, a south and west facing limestone cliff up to about 120 m high above a boulder field in the Visočica range. It has four pitches, 22 to 28 m long, with 10 to 13 bolts each and a 2-bolt anchor on every stance. The published grades are 6b+, 6a and 6c for pitches 1, 2 and 4 (pitch 3 is misprinted), and the crux comes at the end: an overhanging block on the last pitch. It was opened by Nick Weicht and Chase Tomas and published on Mountain Project in August 2024. That page, written by the first ascensionists, is the only description; nothing in it records a repeat ascent, so expect a remote, little-travelled crag.
No topo we can show. See: mountainproject.com, Mountain Project – Chasing a Dream.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 22 m | 10 bolts | Start on a shared line with three expansion bolts, then break left around an arête onto glue-ins and follow a series of corners trending left to a belay on the second ledge. The first ascensionists say pitches 1 and 2 can be linked. |
| P2 | 6aVI+5.10a | 28 m | 12 bolts | A right-trending crack system up a corner leads to a white, blocky roof. Pass it on the right, then go straight up the face on steep ground with good holds to a belay at a good stance at the left end of a right-trending roof. |
| P3 | – | 24 m | 13 bolts | A short stemming corner (with a courtesy clip) and a move round a small arête lead to a sloping ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then go straight up on face holds over a couple of bulges to a comfortable belay on a large grassy ledge. The grade is misprinted on Mountain Project ('b+'), so it is left blank here; the route grade of 6c is the ceiling. |
| P4 | 6cVIII-5.11b | 26 m | 12 bolts | Climb a left-trending wide crack on slightly overhanging ground with good holds, then go right along a juggy ledge past a small pine to the crux, an overhanging block the first ascensionists call the 'refrigerator', passed with slaps and a knee bar. Sustained but easier climbing then trends left up a corner to the top of the cliff. |
Spijonik is in the Visočica range, roughly halfway between Sarajevo and Mostar as the crow flies. From central Sarajevo it is about 1 h 15 min by car, heading south on a paved road into the Visočica range and past the Olympic ski area; from Mostar allow about 2 h 20 min heading north-east, and about 4 h 20 min from Banja Luka. The sources describe driving only; no public transport is mentioned.
About 30 min. Park on the left side of the road (as you drive downhill), opposite the trailhead; a trailhead sign marks the spot. From where the trail leaves the road you can see the upper half of the main wall about 1.5 km to the west, above the valley floor. Follow the red-and-white waymarked hiking trail to the boulder field at the foot of the cliff (about 25 min), then continue to the base of the wall. The route takes the tallest section of sustained rock on the main wall and starts up the first three bolts of another line before breaking left.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Point from Mountain Project route and Spijonik main wall GPS point
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 43.59635, 18.23428 (crag)
Not described. The route finishes at the top of the cliff and every pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor, but the source says nothing about abseiling the line or walking off.
Bail with caveats
Retreat is not documented. Every pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor and the pitches are 22 to 28 m long, so abseiling the line from any stance should be possible. However, the source does not say whether the anchors have rings or maillons, or how to get down from the top.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
112Emergency
Emergency
There is no national mountain rescue number: the regional Gorska služba spašavanja is called out through cantonal civil protection (121).
Position of the crag
43.59635, 18.23428
Marks the crag, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
13 quickdraws covers the longest pitch (the first ascensionists list 13 bolts and 2-bolt anchors); take extra if you link pitches 1 and 2. Rope length is not given; the longest pitch is 28 m. Helmet.
The wall faces south and west and sits at about 1800 m (Mountain Project puts the wall at 1804 m and the area at 1733 m), in open, rolling high country with little shade. The first ascensionists give summer as the climbing season. The thetopo guide to the boulder field below says April or May until the end of November, with high altitude keeping summer temperatures manageable. The same guide says there is no phone reception at the crag.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1900 m
Loading the forecast.
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|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1900 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 4 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Spijonik (Visočica) are not available yet
No reports yet.
Around 6c · about 4 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
The harder classic on the Goloritzè spire: compact grey walls and smooth water-drop slabs at 6b to 6b+, then a 6c scoop and an airy finish to a tiny summit above the turquoise bay. Shaded, technical and on the feet.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b4 pitches135 m
Morocco · Tafraout (Anti-Atlas)
Two easy friction pitches, one short and vicious boulder move, a pleasant grade 5 slab and a pitch up the perched summit block of a granite dome. Not sustained, and the 6c move is usually pulled on the bolts, but it is one of the very few fully bolted four-pitch routes at Tafraout and combines well with a neighbour.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b4 pitches105 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Costa Blanca (Cabeçó d'Or)
Delicate, technical wall climbing on small edges up a detached pillar and then the magnificent grey headwall above the hanging garden of the Paredón de los Alcoyanos. Sustained at 6b and above with little rest for the feet, and bolted as a sport route. A step across the void from the top of the pillar is the route's oddity.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b5 pitches160 m
France · Sainte-Victoire
Five pitches of demanding slab climbing on flawless grey rock at the left side of the Surplomb de la Carrière: two pitches of 6c, one of 6b+ with a finger crack, and a pocketed final wall. Closely bolted where it is hard, with an obligatory grade of 6a+.
6cVIII-5.11b6cVIII-5.11b5 pitches120 m
Compiled from published sources, last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.