Preinerwand – Preinerwandplatte, Prein an der Rax · Rax · Austria
One of the best moderate routes on the Rax: three steeper pitches on rather loose rock, then three pitches of beautiful friction slab where you climb 'by laying on hands'. UIAA VI at most, V+ obligatory.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 1790 m above sea level (camptocamp route 1507792).
5c+VI/VI+5.9+6 pitches · 195 mBail not documented
Mit Göttlicher Hand ('by divine hand') climbs the smooth Preinerwandplatte on the south side of the Rax. The first three pitches are steeper and on poorer rock, with a bouldery move straight off the ground; the last three are a sustained, delicate slab on friction. It is one of the most recommended moderate routes in the Rax area, and the Seehütte is a short walk from the top.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Kletterführer Höllenthal, Rax - Schneeberg.
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | – | Poor, crumbly rock with a bouldery move at the start that is hard when cold. |
| P2 | – | Still fairly steep. |
| P3 | – | Nothing special. The Nordavind variant leaves the route at the top of this pitch (bergsteigen.com). |
| P4 | – | The slab begins: friction climbing. |
| P5 | – | The second slab pitch, more of a crack climb according to a bergsteigen.com photo caption. |
| P6 | – | Slab to the top. |
Take the A2 to the Seebenstein junction and the S6 to Gloggnitz, then go via Reichenau an der Rax to Prein an der Rax. At the end of the village, just before the sharp left bend where the road starts to climb to the Preiner Gscheid, turn right at the signs 'Klettergebiet Preinerwand / Griesleitenhof' and drive to the end of the road (forestry house with a barrier, parking). By public transport: train via Wiener Neustadt to Payerbach-Reichenau, then bus to Prein an der Rax.
From the car park follow the forest road until the green-marked path branches right, and follow it to the Bachinger Bründl spring (1280 m, junction for the Preinerwandsteig). From here take the red-marked Holzknechtsteig past the turn-off for the new Haidsteig. Continue up the Holzknechtsteig until you are below the prominent slab (scrappy at the bottom, smooth above). The route starts right, below a niche with a memorial plaque; follow the gold bolts. The start is at about 1600 m; allow about 1:30 h.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Coordinates · route base
Parking
Car park at the Griesleitenhof forestry house barrier above Prein an der Rax (bergsteigen.com marker)
Point from bergsteigen.com start marker, matching the camptocamp route point (47.70119, 15.73307)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 47.70117, 15.73301 (route base) · Parking: 47.68354, 15.74157
Walk towards the Seehütte and descend the Holzknechtsteig back to the start, or, for sure-footed walkers, the Preinerwandsteig (via ferrata A/B) north-east of the summit.
Bail not documented
Retreat is not described. The normal descent is on foot from the top; abseiling the slab would need two ropes or many short abseils.
10 quickdraws, a single 50 m rope (camptocamp lists 2×50 m) and a helmet.
South to south-west facing at 1600 to 1780 m; bergsteigen.com gives April to October as the season.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1790 m
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1790 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 6 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −3 | −2 | 1 | 6 | 11 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 7 | 2 | −3 |
| Mean daily low °C | −10 | −10 | −7 | −3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 4 | −0 | −4 | −9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 11 | 15 | 14 | 18 | 19 | 19 | 16 | 14 | 12 | 11 | 12 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1621 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Around 5c+ · about 6 pitches
Greece · Kalymnos & Telendos
Kalymnos's best-known introduction to multi-pitch: a series of steps and slabs, always with plenty of holds, finishing on top of the Grande Grotta. The upper pitches feel very exposed. Real pitch lengths are shorter than the guidebook says (20–25 m).
5c+VI/VI+5.9+5c+VI/VI+5.9+6 pitches175 m
Committing
France · Verdon
The classic introduction to the Escalès cliff, first climbed in 1970 and rebolted in 2023. You abseil in to the Jardin des Écureuils and climb out: two steep, polished pitches of cracks and small corners, an easy link, then the grey slabs of pockets and runnels that give the route its name. A lot of 5c for a route with this reputation as easy.
5c+VI/VI+5.9+5c+VI/VI+5.9+6 pitches175 m
Committing
Italy · Sardinia
A rising rightward traverse across the smooth granite dome of Monte Pulchiana, following a thin quartz vein. Pure friction climbing, well bolted but insecure if you are not used to granite slab. The rock is lichenous from pitch 3 and should be left alone after rain.
5c+VI/VI+5.9+5c+VI/VI+5.9+6 pitches150 m
Austria · Salzkammergut
The slightly harder neighbour of Reise durchs gelobte Land, just to its left, and climbed very often. Six short pitches with the crux, a traverse at UIAA 6-/6, on the second; the rest is 5 or easier. A few short passages are less attractive, among them an earthy ledge with a fixed rope.
5c+VI/VI+5.9+5c+VI/VI+5.9+6 pitches145 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.