Rabensteinhorn (above Bad Reichenhall-Karlstein) · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall · Germany
Read the cautionsBail with caveatsBolting confidence: medium
A steep, athletic line up the pillar right of the Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth, reached by one pitch of that route and one of Alpinmodel. Four independent pitches of UIAA 6 to 7+ on very good rock, then the last pitches of the Schönheitskönigin.
Completely bolted, but a three-route combination with wider spacing in places, a sparsely bolted easy link pitch and loose blocks on the pillar head.
The route
Schmetterlings Kant'n follows the prominent pillar directly right of "Die Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth" on the Rabensteinhorn. As usually climbed it is a seven-pitch combination: the first pitch of the Schönheitskönigin, a grass ledge and the first pitch of Alpinmodel, four independent pitches up the pillar, and the last pitch and a half of the Schönheitskönigin. The pillar pitches are steep and athletic, UIAA 7+ at the start and 7 on the arête, on mostly very good rock. The view takes in the Loferer Steinberge, the Reiter Alm and the Watzmann.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | 30 m | 9 bolts | First pitch of "Die Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth" (UIAA 6-). From the belay traverse right along a grass ledge. |
| P2 | 4c | 25 m | 3 bolts | First pitch of "Alpinmodel" (UIAA 4+/5-) to a rock ledge. Only three bolts. The pillar starts at the left end of the ledge. |
| P3 | 6c | 20 m | 5 bolts | UIAA 7+. Along big undercuts, then steeply over the bulge. The crux of the route. |
| P4 | 5c+ | 20 m | 4 bolts | UIAA 6. Interesting slab and wall climbing. |
| P5 | 6b | 30 m | 8 bolts | UIAA 7. Airy climbing along the arête with a steep boulder-problem exit onto the pillar head. Extend the second bolt. Watch for loose blocks above the pillar head. |
| P6 | 5c+ | 20 m | 7 bolts | UIAA 6. Traverse left for 5 m (2 bolts) into the fifth pitch of the Schönheitskönigin and follow it for 15 m (5 bolts) to the belay. |
| P7 | 5c+ | 20 m | 5 bolts | UIAA 6. Sixth and last pitch of the Schönheitskönigin, to the route book. |
Getting there
From the A8 Munich to Salzburg motorway take the Bad Reichenhall exit and the B20 bypass to the Karlstein exit; or leave the A8 at Traunstein/Siegsdorf and come via Inzell and Weißbach on the B305. In Karlstein drive to the hikers' car park below the Kugelbachbauer inn (about 500 m). By public transport: train to Bad Reichenhall and bus to Karlstein.
About 1 h 15. From the car park follow the forest road to the Kugelbachbauer inn and on to the Paul-Gruber-Haus (about 50 min so far). From there take the hiking path towards the Müllnerhorn: wide at first, narrower beyond a turning place, which is as far as a mountain bike is useful. The path has some cable-protected sections and brings you directly below the cliffs. At a tree with a mark, go up left to the start of the Schönheitskönigin, where there is a name plate with two bolts by a tree, at about 1200 m.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Hikers' car park below the Kugelbachbauer, Karlstein
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/schmetterlings-kantn-rabensteinhorn (marker labelled approximate)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.69440, 12.82040 (crag) · Parking: 47.71840, 12.85030
Getting down
Either abseil, or walk off: from the route book climb about 30 m higher, traverse a long way right without losing much height, and descend a wooded gully (path traces, cairns) to the Müllnerhorn path. bergsteigen.com allows 1 h 45 back to the car.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Abseiling is given as a descent option, so the belays take an abseil, but the page does not say down which line or with what ropes. The route links three lines with a grass-ledge traverse low down and a 5 m traverse high up, so abseils do not simply reverse the climb. Pitches are 20 to 30 m, within reach of a doubled 60 m rope but not all within reach of the recommended 50 m single.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-west facing, base about 1200 m, top about 1370 m. Season May to November.
Sun on the wall · SW-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −1 | 0 | 3 | 7 | 12 | 16 | 18 | 18 | 14 | 10 | 4 | −1 |
| Mean daily low °C | −10 | −9 | −6 | −3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 1 | −5 | −9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 14 | 14 | 17 | 16 | 20 | 20 | 21 | 19 | 16 | 14 | 13 | 15 |
| Sunshine hours a day | 5.5 | 6.6 | 8.1 | 10.0 | 10.3 | 11.0 | 11.2 | 10.4 | 8.6 | 7.2 | 5.7 | 5.0 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1337 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
10 quickdraws, a 50 m single rope and a helmet. bergsteigen.com lists no nuts and no cams.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Schmetterlings Kant'n.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Germany · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall
Six pitches on excellent grippy limestone with views to the Watzmann, established 2012. Pitch grades are converted from the UIAA topo (6-, 6, 6, 5+, 5+, 6); 5 is obligatory.
6a6 pitches165 m
Germany · Berchtesgaden & Bad Reichenhall
A long-day alpine-flavoured plaisir route on the Untersberg's summit wall. Pitches range from UIAA 5+ to 6+ (≈5b–6b), with 5+ obligatory.
6a+10 pitches250 m
Around 6c · about 7 pitches
Morocco · Taghia
The classic first route at Taghia: steep, water-sculpted red limestone on the west face of the Taoujdad, with a 6c third pitch that is 6b until a short crux below the belay. It is better bolted than most Taghia routes and correspondingly popular, so some pitches are polished.
6c7 pitches300 m
Spain · El Chorro
Seven pitches up a steep south face at Frontales, sustained, physical and technical on very rough, unpolished limestone. The fifth pitch (6b+) is a thin slab and the sixth (6c) has a strenuous start and a crux on grey rock. It is one of the few 6c multipitch lines here with a clean abseil descent.
6c7 pitches195 m
Switzerland · Sanetsch
The classic introduction to the Sanetsch at 6c: eight varied pitches up a pillar of superb rough limestone, with the hard climbing packed into a few well-bolted metres on each pitch. A steep corner mantel, a balancy wall, a fine slab and an airy exit from a niche. Tops out on grassy slopes with a walk-off.
6c8 pitches250 m
Croatia · Paklenica
Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.
6c8 pitches220 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
