Ranc des Agnelons – west face · Gerbier (Vercors) · France
Seven long, sustained pitches on compact fluted limestone on the highest part of the Ranc des Agnelons. A bouldery 6c+ start, a magnificent 45 m 7a endurance pitch, then cannelures at 6b. Generous grades and close bolting make it a good first route at this level.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point 1974 m above sea level (camptocamp route 1687721).
7aVIII5.11d7 pitches · 260 mEasy to bail
Ticket pour Manikia climbs the west face of the Ranc des Agnelons, the northern continuation of the Gerbier ridge above Villard-de-Lans, where the face is highest. Pitches average about 40 m on excellent compact grey limestone, with crack climbing low down and fluted cannelures higher up. The second pitch, 45 m of continuous 7a with good rests, is the highlight. Recent parties consistently describe the bolting as close and impeccable and the grades as generous; pitch 7 has a reach-dependent move. The face is in shade until early afternoon.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo at Espace Vertical – Ticket pour Manikia topo (PDF), or in Escalades Choisies en Vercors, Chartreuse et Dévoluy.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6c+VIII-5.11c | 45 m | Rising rightwards; one big move to reach a crack and mantel onto a bulge, then a pumpy crack finish. Rock needs care at the start. |
| P2 | 7aVIII5.11d | 45 m | Straight up: a long, continuous sequence of physical moves with rests. The best pitch of the route. |
| P3 | 6aVI+5.10a | 25 m | Short transition pitch. |
| P4 | 6bVII5.10c | 40 m | Wanders a little (manage rope drag), then a fine cannelure to finish. You can belay on two plates at the end of the pitch or a little higher on glue-ins at the foot of pitch 5. |
| P5 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 40 m | Cannelures; technical and sustained, with foot-jams between the flutings. |
| P6 | 6bVII5.10c | 40 m | A fine run-up; the rock is less good towards the end, so do not pull on everything. |
| P7 | 6c/7a | 25 m | A reachy 3 m section at the start (6c if you are 1.80 m or taller, 7a if shorter), then a crack leading diagonally left. One short climber bypassed the start on the right, on poorer rock. |
From Villard-de-Lans drive to Les Clots (west side of the Vercors). A 2026 party approached instead from the east via the Col Vert.
About 1.5 hours. From Les Clots go up to the Bergerie de la Fauge via the Collet des Clots, climb the Combe Charbonnière, and at the junction turn left onto the Sentier Péronnard towards the Col Vert. The route starts where the face is highest, roughly below the word 'Ranc' on the IGN map; a photo on camptocamp helps to locate it. A low rock band below the path guards the face.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Coordinates · route base
Parking
camptocamp waypoint 110553 (Villard-de-Lans – Les Clots)
Point from camptocamp route 1687721
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 45.04040, 5.59215 (route base) · Parking: 45.05579, 5.56775
Walk north along the crest of the Ranc des Agnelons to the Col Vert and descend the GR91 to Les Clots. You can also abseil the route: the belays are on two bolts with ring hangers.
Easy to bail
Every belay is on two bolts with ring hangers that take the rope directly, and a 2026 party states the route can be abseiled. Retreat by abseiling the line from any belay.
15 quickdraws (a May 2026 party found 16 useful). Rope length not stated; pitches are up to 45 m.
West facing at about 1800 to 1970 m. In shade until about 12:00 to 14:00 in summer, so it is a good choice in a heatwave; start early. A large snow patch was at R4 in late April 2026 but was easy to avoid.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1974 m
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1974 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 7 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · W-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −1 | 0 | 4 | 7 | 12 | 16 | 18 | 18 | 14 | 10 | 4 | 0 |
| Mean daily low °C | −8 | −8 | −5 | −2 | 2 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 1 | −4 | −7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 11 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 14 | 11 | 11 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 13 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1615 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Around 7a · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
Two pitches of bridging up a 60 m corner hung with tufas and stalactites (6c+, 6c), then grey water-drop walls and a short roof at 7a that goes in three moves of aid. Seven pitches of varied climbing on perfect, unpolished rock.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d7 pitches220 m
Spain · Costa Blanca (Peñón de Ifach)
A sustained sport line up the pillar between Costa Blanca and the Diedro UBSA, on rock that has escaped the polish of the older classics. Five of the seven pitches are 6b+ or harder and both 7a sections go at A0. Parties single out the finger-lock crack of pitch 3 and the pillar edge of pitch 4.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d7 pitches250 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
The other great line of the Visera, on a concave wall that leans further out the higher you go. Six pitches at 6a to 6b on big cobbles lead to the vulture ledge, then one short, very overhanging crux pitch above enormous exposure. That last pitch is about 7a free, or roughly 6b to 6c with rests on its closely spaced bolts.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d7 pitches250 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
France · Baou de Saint-Jeannet
One of the essential long routes of the Baou: seven pitches that hardly drop below the sixth grade, each with a different problem, from thin slab to a steep bulge and a superb layback corner at 6c. The single 7a section on pitch 2 is closely bolted and can be aided. Expect a few loose blocks and a scrappy link pitch across the Vernet ledge.
7aVIII5.11d7aVIII5.11d7 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.