Multipitch Atlas

Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif)

Switzerland

The Cabane d'Orny (2811 m) sits on the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc massif above Champex-Lac in Valais, below the Trient plateau. The Aiguille d'Orny, half an hour above the hut, is a 3150 m needle of excellent granite with several bolted routes on its south side that need no glacier travel. Champex-Lac is reached by road or bus from Orsières (trains from Martigny); the La Breya chairlift then saves most of the climb, leaving about two hours on a mountain path to the hut. The season is high summer, roughly July to September.

Route
1
Grade span
5b
Longest route: La Moquette
250 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif) are not available yet

1 route

Routes in Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif)

The south side of the Aiguille d'Orny above the scree slope of the approach

Switzerland · Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif)

La Moquette

Nine pitches up a granite spur and the final tower of the Aiguille d'Orny to a 3150 m summit, on rough, cracked rock with superb friction. Two moves of 5b, the rest 4b and 4c, closely bolted since 2016 and easy enough to climb in boots. The three steep pitches on the summit tower are the highlight.

5b9 pitches250 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

Italian

corda
rope
rinvio
quickdraw
spit, fix
bolt
sosta
belay, anchor
tiro
pitch
Blocca!
Take!
Corda!
Slack!
Recupera!
Take in!

German

Seil
rope
Expresse, Exe
quickdraw
Bohrhaken
bolt
Stand
belay, anchor
Seillänge
pitch
Zu!
Take!
Seil!
Slack!
Seil ein!
Take in!

Switzerland

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