Aiguille d'Orny – south spur and south-east facet · Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif) · Switzerland
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
Nine pitches up a granite spur and the final tower of the Aiguille d'Orny to a 3150 m summit, on rough, cracked rock with superb friction. Two moves of 5b, the rest 4b and 4c, closely bolted since 2016 and easy enough to climb in boots. The three steep pitches on the summit tower are the highlight.
The route
La Moquette ('the carpet', after the square of carpet once nailed to the rock at its start) climbs a spur whose base lies just right of the fall line of the Aiguille d'Orny's summit, then crosses to the south-east facet of the summit tower. Five pitches on the spur, mostly on its crest, lead to an easy linking ridge; three more pitches, the first two short, finish on top. It was opened in 1973, bolted in 1995 and completely re-equipped in June 2016. Since then every report describes it as very well protected. It is a hut route at 3000 m, but neither the approach nor the descent touches a glacier.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4c | 20 m | Up the base of the spur past three closely spaced bolts. Gulliver.it gives 5a. Links with pitch 2 on a 50 m rope (14 quickdraws). |
| P2 | 4b | 20 m | Continue on the spur. |
| P3 | 5b | 20 m | A delicate slab move, then higher up a harder move to gain a rib; well bolted. |
| P4 | 4b | 40 m | Long pitch on the crest. The belay at its top is not chained. |
| P5 | 4c | 30 m | On the crest; one party lost the line here without consequence. Belay not chained. Gulliver.it gives 4b. |
| P6 | 2/3 | – | Linking pitch along an easy ridge, not bolted, done moving together. From its end go up the last of the ridge and cross a gully to the left. The descent path passes right here, so you can escape or leave boots and a rucksack. |
| P7 | 4c | 20 m | The south-east facet, started on its right edge: follow the bolts trending right, steep on big holds. |
| P8 | 4c | 20 m | Up leftwards, then more directly to a ledge, from which you can also walk off to the right. Gulliver.it and the English camptocamp text give 4a to 4b. Links with pitch 7. |
| P9 | 5b | 25 m | The final steep pitch to the summit; 5a+ in the English camptocamp text. |
Getting there
From Martigny drive or take the train to Orsières and the bus to Champex-Lac (1498 m). Take the La Breya chairlift and follow the mountain path to the Cabane d'Orny: a 2024 party left the top of the lift at 9:05 and reached the hut at 11:10. The chairlift runs in summer only (it was still open on 24 August 2025; check dates and the time of the last descent; one party was back at the chairlift at 16:45). Without the lift the walk from Champex is much longer. The route can be done in a day from the first chair by fast parties, but most sleep at the hut.
From the Cabane d'Orny follow the path towards the Cabane du Trient for about 20 minutes, to roughly 2860 m, then climb the scree slope (faint track, cairns) to the foot of the Aiguille d'Orny in another 10 minutes or so. The base of the spur is streaked by a vein of white rock. The carpet and the faded red 'Moq' that used to mark the start may no longer be visible, but three hangers show in the first 5 m.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Champex (camptocamp waypoint 104255): village and foot of the La Breya chairlift
Point from camptocamp waypoint 39004 (Aiguille d'Orny summit; the route finishes here)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 46.00303, 7.05441 (crag) · Parking: 46.03083, 7.10778
Getting down
From the summit one abseil of about 24 to 25 m (gulliver.it says about 30 m) brings you back to the ledge at the foot of the last pitch. Follow the ledge east, then a faint path in the scree. After a large cairn there are two ways: turn right down a succession of steep, cairned gullies that end about 50 m east of the foot of the route, or turn left to the top of a gully marked by twin cairns and visible from the hut, which is steep and delicate, then scree to the hut path. About 1 hour to the hut.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
There are two documented ways off part-way: the descent path passes the top of pitch 6, and a ledge at the top of pitch 8 lets you walk off to the right. Below that, retreat means abseiling the spur; the belays are bolted and mostly chained, but the fourth pitch is 40 m long.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South to south-west facing, 2830 m to 3150 m. Season roughly July to September. In late July 2024 there were a few snow patches on the approach that needed no crampons or axe and the descent gully was dry. It is cold out of the sun: a party in late August 2025 had 2°C in the morning and 8°C at most. A neighbouring route's page notes that an ice axe is useful if snow lingers on the approach or in the gully.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Orny (Champex, Mont Blanc massif) are not available yet
What to carry
8 quickdraws (14 if you link pitches 1 and 2), a few slings to link the two unchained belays, a single 50 m rope and a helmet. No cams or nuts. Many parties climb in boots, or carry boots for the descent and leave them at the top of the gully between pitches 6 and 7.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to La Moquette.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Around 5b · about 9 pitches
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
A west-to-east traverse of the six towers of the Florets crest, alternating short pitches with five short abseils and ending on a knife-edge. First climbed in 1928, it is the classic introduction to ridge climbing in Provence. The moves of 5 are short but polished and cannot be avoided, and all the rope work makes it slower than its length suggests.
5b9 pitches120 m
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
The first route opened on the Zucco dell'Angelone, following the natural line of the fourth spur by corners, cracks, a chimney and friction slabs. Eight varied pitches at 5a to 5b with an easy crest to finish. Never hard but never trivial either.
5b8 pitches220 m
Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)
Ten short pitches of easy-angled Panticosa granite beside the Caldarés stream, twenty minutes from the car. Mostly friction slabs at 4b to 5a linked by walking-angle ground, with one polished bulge given 5b on the topo. A very gentle first granite multipitch, and a climbing approach to the walls above.
5b10 pitches220 m
Spain · Vega Baja (Orihuela & Callosa)
A long, steady V+ spur to the summit of the Sierra de Callosa on exceptional rock. Many terraces allow a safe retreat, which makes it good mileage for building multipitch experience. Check local seasonal climbing restrictions in the Sierra de Callosa.
5+9 pitches500 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.