Paklenica

Croatia · Paklenica

Karamara Sweet Temptations

A five-minute approach from the gorge café. There is a polished boulder-problem start, then wandering grooves and an airy traverse on the 6a+ third pitch.

6a+4 pitches110 m★★★

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Croatia · Paklenica

Water Song

Classic Paklenica water-groove climbing on beautifully sculpted rock. The crux is a rising crack traverse on P5, with delicate slab moves above.

6a+6 pitches160 m★★★

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Croatia · Paklenica

Dreaming the Lost Friends

A short, high-quality modern line: a clean straight first pitch, then a steep crack crux and magnificent water grooves.

6a+5 pitches100 m★★★

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Croatia · Paklenica

Big Wall Speed Climbing (Tinin raz)

The line used for Paklenica's annual Big Wall Speed Climbing competition: steep, direct and on very rough rock that has stayed unpolished. A sustained 45 m 6c+ pitch on small holds is the crux, followed by sharp runnels, a big corner and three overhangs to finish. Fifteen minutes from the car.

6c+6 pitches200 m★★★

Croatia · Paklenica

Michelini 4

A short, hard line high on the shady north face of Anića kuk: a steep 6a+, a 7a corner on razor-sharp small edges, a slightly overhanging 6c+ corner and a long finish up water runnels. The rock is sharp and superb from the first metre. Good as a half-day or combined with a neighbour.

7a4 pitches130 m★★★

Croatia · Paklenica

Alive

Seven sustained pitches of 6a to 6c on the shady north face of Anića kuk, then an easy scramble out. A poor first pitch gives way to a steep ramp, a slightly overhanging 6c wall, an off-width and a fine finishing slab. The rock improves with every pitch.

6c8 pitches220 m★★★