Multipitch Atlas

Michelini 4

Anića kuk – north face (Sjeverna stijena), upper part · Paklenica · Croatia

Easy to bailBolting confidence: high

A short, hard line high on the shady north face of Anića kuk: a steep 6a+, a 7a corner on razor-sharp small edges, a slightly overhanging 6c+ corner and a long finish up water runnels. The rock is sharp and superb from the first metre. Good as a half-day or combined with a neighbour.

The north face of Anića kuk, Paklenica; Michelini 4 is on the upper part of this facePhoto: Sphoo · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The north face of Anića kuk, Paklenica; Michelini 4 is on the upper part of this facePhoto: Sphoo · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
7a
Pitches
4
Length
130 m
Approach
60 min
Aspect
N
North-facing
Rope
2×60 m

The route

Overview

Michelini 4 sits at the top end of the north face of Anića kuk, near the routes Figurae Veneris and Propeler. It packs its difficulty into the middle: a 7a pitch that climbs a corner and then goes directly over it on tiny sharp edges, followed by a slightly overhanging 6c+ corner. The outer pitches are 6a+ and about 5b to 5c. bergsteigen.com gives UIAA 8 with 7 obligatory, roughly 6b to 6b+ obligatory, and awards it three stars. The same source states that no additional protection is needed.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16a+35 mUp the ramp to the right (an intermediate belay is possible at the first bolt), then vertically up very steep, juggy rock, and a short slab rightwards to the belay.
P27a25 mSteeply straight up to a corner, then directly over the corner and vertically up on razor-sharp small edges. UIAA 8.
P36c+20 mThe slightly overhanging corner straight up to a belay where the angle eases.
P45c50 mSteeply up a shallow corner to easier-angled rock, then a long run up water runnels on perfect rock to the top. The pitch text grades it 5b, the summary line 5c.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Base yourself in Starigrad-Paklenica on the coast road between Rijeka and Zadar (from Zagreb about 235 km by the A1 to the Maslenica exit, then 15 km along the coast). A signed road leaves the eastern end of the village for the national park. Buy a ticket at the entrance (climbers can buy 3-day and 5-day tickets), then drive about 2 km to the last car park at the end of the road.

On foot · about 60 min

From the last car park follow the main path up the gorge. After about 15 min, before the path levels out, a signed path branches right for Anića kuk. Follow it for about 100 m to a fork: right goes to the Stup sector, left to the Trapez, Klin, north-west and north faces. Go left and follow the path up under the faces almost to the plateau. Shortly before the saddle go right, under the north face (Sjeverna stijena). The start is right of Figurae Veneris, where a prominent ramp leads up to the right. About 1 hour; the start is at about 450 m.

Finding the route · 3 photos

Approach photo

Map of the walk-in

  • Route base
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the base of the route.

Coordinates · route base

44.30790, 15.48422

Parking

44.30372, 15.47109

Last car park in the Velika Paklenica gorge (bergsteigen.com map)

Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/michelini-4-anica-kuk-paklenica

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

The route is very well set up for abseiling, which is the quick way down with two 60 m ropes. Alternatively walk off: go south-east over easy blocky ground (occasional small cairns, no paint marks) down into the wood to the marked path, follow it almost level northwards to a marked saddle with a path junction, then take the path left (west) down under the north face back to the start. About 1 hour to the car park.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Easy to bail

bergsteigen.com describes the route as very well equipped for abseiling, and it is only four pitches long. With two 60 m ropes you can retreat from any belay.

Retreat from
Any belay.
Point of no return
None documented.
Carry
Two 60 m ropes (pitch 4 is 50 m).
Basis
Stated in the sourcesStated by bergsteigen.com; individual abseil lengths are not given.

Safety

Hazards

  • The rock is razor sharp, especially the small edges of pitch 2.
  • Bolt spacing is somewhat larger than on plaisir routes.
  • The walk-off is unmarked at first, over blocky karst.
  • Pitch 4 is 50 m: knot the ends when abseiling it.

Sun and weather

Conditions

North facing, with the start at about 450 m, so it is shady and cool: a choice for warm days. bergsteigen.com's information dates from early June; the months given here are inferred from the aspect. Drying times are not documented.

Usual season · May to Sep

Sun on the wall · N-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C781216212528282318138
Mean daily low °C003712161818141062
Rain days 1 mm or more11101112118669111312
Sunshine hours a day6.17.69.310.612.113.013.412.710.58.56.45.6

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 262 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis (about 10 km grid): the wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

10 quickdraws, two or three long slings and two 60 m ropes (bergsteigen.com). No nuts or cams. Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
10
Rope
2×60 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Michelini 4.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • bergsteigen.com allows 2 hours for the climb and 4 hours car to car.
  • Alive (6c), further left on the same face, combines well with it over a long day or a short trip.
  • The first pitch can be split at the first bolt of the ramp if rope drag worries you.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Last pitch: the pitch-by-pitch text on bergsteigen.com gives 5b, the summary of individual grades gives 5c (50 m). 5c is used here.
  • Only one detailed source was found. The route does not appear under this name on camptocamp or in plezanje.net's Paklenica list.

Provenance

Sources

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.