Multipitch Atlas

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Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein)

The Buchstein (1701 m) and its neighbour the Roßstein are small limestone peaks in the Bavarian Prealps between Kreuth (Tegernsee valley) and Lenggries, with the Tegernseer Hütte perched in the gap between them. The Buchstein south face is about 150 to 200 m high, sunny and grippy, and carries a cluster of bolted multipitch routes, many of them re-equipped or put up by Uwe Kalkbrenner and friends from 2005 on. Most parties start from the paid Ross- und Buchstein hikers' car park near Bayerwald, south of Kreuth on the road to the Achen pass, and walk up in about 1.5 hours; a mountain bike from the Schwarztennalm or from Fleck near Lenggries shortens the approach. Buses run to the start from Wildbad Kreuth, and the BOB train links Munich with the Tegernsee valley. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, often into December; after heavy rain wait a couple of days, because the exit gullies are earthy.

Routes
2
Grade span
5c+to6b
Longest route: Südwand Schmankerl
180 m
The Buchstein south face from the approach in spring
The Buchstein south face from the approach in springPhoto: Nicolas Chevillot · CC BY-SA 3.0

Location and climate

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Buchstein, Kreuth · 1,565 m

Monthly climate averages for Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein), 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMar (usual season)Apr (usual season)May (usual season)JunJulAugSep (usual season)Oct (usual season)Nov (usual season)Dec (usual season)
Mean daily high °C−3−126111516161393−2
Mean daily low °C−12−11−8−515773−1−6−10
Rain days 1 mm or more131316161920191815141214

● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1565 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

Routes in Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein)

Buchstein south face from the approach, with the Schmankerl line in red and the walk-off towards the Tegernseer Hütte dotted

Germany · Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein)

Südwand Schmankerl

The popular moderate classic of the Buchstein south face: a crack and corner line up the centre of the wall, almost to the summit. Short pitches of grippy limestone with one harder move on the third pitch, all on close bolts, then an easy finish to the top.

5c+5 pitches180 m

The Buchstein south face from the approach in spring

Germany · Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein)

Sahnestückchen

Steep slab climbing from pocket to pocket on the right-hand side of the Buchstein south face, just right of Schmankerl. One short UIAA 7- crux at the start of the second pitch, well bolted, then the climbing eases to UIAA 6 and 5 towards the top, finishing just below the summit.

6b5 pitches140 m

Read the cautions

Download parking and wall bases as GPX (4 points)

At the crag and in town

German

Seil
rope
Expresse, Exe
quickdraw
Bohrhaken
bolt
Stand
belay, anchor
Seillänge
pitch
Zu!
Take!
Seil!
Slack!
Seil ein!
Take in!

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