Buchstein south face · Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein) · Germany
Steep slab climbing from pocket to pocket on the right-hand side of the Buchstein south face, just right of Schmankerl. One short UIAA 7- crux at the start of the second pitch, well bolted, then the climbing eases to UIAA 6 and 5 towards the top, finishing just below the summit.
Well bolted with a short, well-protected crux, but no source confirms that every belay is bolted: a 2021 party found them rigged for abseil with cord. Earthy exit after rain and rockfall as on the rest of the Buchstein.
6bVII5.10c5 pitches · 140 mEasy to bail
Sahnestückchen climbs the right-hand part of the Buchstein south face, right of Südwand Schmankerl, and ends just below the summit. It is mostly steep wall and slab climbing on pockets rather than friction, with one short UIAA 7- (about 6a+/6b) crux at the first two bolts of the second pitch and UIAA 5 to 6 elsewhere. The bolting is good throughout and very good at the hard moves. It was put up by Tom Hesslinger, Uwe Kalkbrenner and Gabi Riedel, and like its neighbour it is very popular, especially in spring and late autumn.
No topo we can show; see the sources.
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c+/6a | UIAA 6. Steep pocketed wall; it gets smoother again towards the end of the pitch. |
| P2 | 6a+/6b | UIAA 7-. The crux is right at the start, at the first two bolts, and is very well protected; then easier. |
| P3 | 5cVI5.9 | UIAA 6-. |
| P4 | 5aV+5.7 | UIAA 5, in the upper part of the wall. |
| P5 | 4cV5.6 | UIAA 5-. The last pitch, finishing just below the summit through the earthy exit. |
As for Südwand Schmankerl: the paid 'Ross- und Buchstein' hikers' car park just before Bayerwald, south of Kreuth on the road to the Achen pass (5 EUR in 2021). Buses from Wildbad Kreuth or Wiesing. By mountain bike you can also start from the Schwarztennalm car park or from Fleck near Lenggries.
About 1.5 hours on foot from Bayerwald: past the Sonnbergalm to the prominent boulder, a short way up the cabled path towards the Tegernseer Hütte, then right at a hairpin on a path to a small hut and on to the foot of the cliffs. In the high right-hand part of the wall a grass ledge leads to the start, marked with a metal name plate; the first bolt is up and right at the top of the grass.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Paid hikers' car park 'Ross- und Buchstein' near Bayerwald (bergsteigen.com marker)
Point from camptocamp summit waypoint 271574 (Buchstein); bergsteigen.com start marker 47.6325, 11.6792 is about 100 m away
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 47.63333, 11.68000 (crag) · Parking: 47.61620, 11.67630
Either walk off from the summit west on the normal route to the Tegernseer Hütte (grade 2 scrambling with a long, exposed grade 2 passage just before the hut), then down the short cabled path to the foot of the wall, about 1 h 15 min to the car; or abseil the route. A 2021 party found every belay rigged for abseiling and a single 60 m rope enough, and a 2009 party also abseiled it. bergsteigen.com considers abseiling sensible only in an emergency, mainly because of parties climbing below.
Easy to bail
A 2021 party found every belay rigged for abseiling and abseiled comfortably on a single 60 m rope; a 2009 party also abseiled the route from the top. bergsteigen.com prefers the walk-off and treats abseiling as an emergency option, so watch for parties below.
10 quickdraws, a single 60 m rope (or double ropes), a sling and a helmet. No nuts or cams are needed; bergsteigen.com mentions a basic set of nuts only for anxious leaders.
South-facing, start at about 1400 m. Best in spring and late autumn; bergsteigen.com says you can often still climb here in December, and parties have climbed it in February and April with snow on the approach. After heavy rain wait about two days for the earthy exit gully to dry. The descent path gets very wet in the afternoon during snow melt.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1550 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 1550 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −3 | −1 | 2 | 6 | 11 | 15 | 16 | 16 | 13 | 9 | 3 | −2 |
| Mean daily low °C | −12 | −11 | −8 | −5 | 1 | 5 | 7 | 7 | 3 | −1 | −6 | −10 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 13 | 16 | 16 | 19 | 20 | 19 | 18 | 15 | 14 | 12 | 14 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1565 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Germany · Tegernsee Alps (Buchstein)
The popular moderate classic of the Buchstein south face: a crack and corner line up the centre of the wall, almost to the summit. Short pitches of grippy limestone with one harder move on the third pitch, all on close bolts, then an easy finish to the top.
5c+VI/VI+5.9+5 pitches180 m
Around 6b · about 5 pitches
France · Bavella
A concentrate of Bavella on orange granite: long pitches alternating pure friction slabs, walls and roofs of huge tafoni, a cracked corner and a final sequence of technical bulges. Sustained at 6a and 6a+ with rests on big ledges. Maurizio Oviglia calls it one of the most approachable and most recommendable routes in the massif.
6bVII5.10c5 pitches220 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
The route that gives the sector its name: five long, sustained and homogeneous pitches up the full height of the back wall of the bay, left of the vast orange scoop. Pockets, a technical fingery wall, a jug-covered bulge and a long traverse right near the top. Two of the lower belays are hanging stances.
6bVII5.10c5 pitches148 m
Read the cautions
Austria · Karwendel (Innsbruck Nordkette)
The harder twin of Flying Grass, climbing straight up from the same start. Delicate, polished slab low down with a short overhang on pitch 1, then steeper slab on good holds in the middle, and a shared finish.
6bVII5.10c5 pitches150 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A fine short route on the right edge of the Pisón, ending on a big terrace at half height. A vertical wall on small holds on pitch 3 and two hard moves on the last pitch.
6bVII5.10c5 pitches150 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources, last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.