Multipitch Atlas

Wilder Kaiser

Austria

The Wilder Kaiser is the compact limestone range above Ellmau, Scheffau and Kufstein in Tyrol, long known for serious alpine rock. Since about 2010 local climbers have added fully bolted routes on the lower tiers of the Treffauer above Scheffau, in the Schneekar on the north side and at the Multerkar on the south-west side. The start for these is the pay car park at Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, with a walk of 1 to 2 hours. The high north-facing routes are best from June to October.

Routes
2
Grade span
5ato6c
Longest route: König der Löwen
280 m

Where and when

Location and climate

Climate figures for Wilder Kaiser are not available yet

2 routes

Routes in Wilder Kaiser

The Schneekar and the north side of the Treffauer, where the route climbs the lower rocks beside the normal route

Austria · Wilder Kaiser

König der Löwen

Nine pitches of easy slabs and water runnels beside the Treffauer normal route, UIAA 5 at most if you take the easy variant on pitch 4. Lots of bolts and friendly ground make it one of the most popular routes in the Schneekar. The rock is not solid everywhere and the walk-in is two hours.

5a9 pitches280 m

The Treffauer from the north-west, with the Tuxeck behind

Austria · Wilder Kaiser

Via Max

A short alpine sport route in the Schneekar that steepens as it goes: a scrambling start, fine water runnels on rough rock, then a smooth slab into an overhang on pitch 4. The crux is UIAA 7 to 7+ and can be aided on the bolts.

6c5 pitches180 m

Local words

At the crag and in town

German

Seil
rope
Expresse, Exe
quickdraw
Bohrhaken
bolt
Stand
belay, anchor
Seillänge
pitch
Zu!
Take!
Seil!
Slack!
Seil ein!
Take in!

Austria

Other regions nearby