Austria
The Ötztal runs south from the Inn valley west of Innsbruck. Around Längenfeld, half-way up the valley, gneiss walls rise straight from the valley floor: the Nösslachwand at the hamlet of Au and the Burgsteiner Wand just south of the village. Both carry bolted multipitch routes of five to eight pitches with approaches of 15 minutes. Längenfeld is the base, reached by bus from Ötztal-Bahnhof on the Inn valley railway. The walls face west and the season is roughly May to October.
Where and when
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Nösslachwand, Längenfeld (Burgsteiner Wand is 5 km south in the same valley) · 1,267 m
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −0 | 2 | 5 | 8 | 13 | 17 | 19 | 19 | 16 | 12 | 5 | 1 |
| Mean daily low °C | −10 | −8 | −4 | −1 | 3 | 7 | 9 | 9 | 6 | 1 | −5 | −9 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 12 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 22 | 21 | 15 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1267 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
3 routes
Austria · Ötztal
The best-known long route at Nösslach: steep, well-travelled gneiss slabs low down, a zigzag through the big roof zone in the middle, and more slab to finish. Two pitches of about 6b to 6b+, the rest around 6a.
6b+7 pitches200 m
Austria · Ötztal
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+5 pitches170 m
Austria · Ötztal
Steep, exposed gneiss left of the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata, finding a way between huge roofs. The cruxes are the steep slabs of pitches 5 and 6 (6c). Stiffly graded, and the abseil descent is not for everyone.
6c8 pitches195 m
Local words
Austria