Kamen mudrosti (sector B) · Tijesno (Banja Luka) · Bosnia and Herzegovina
Four pitches of slab climbing on the sector Kamen mudrosti in Tijesno canyon, with an obligatory 6b. After a less inspiring first pitch, a sustained second pitch and a fine low-angled layback crack lead to a vertical, featured wall and a great view over the canyon.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Well bolted with rings at every belay according to one recent report, but pitch grades, the approach and the true length are not documented online.
6bVII5.10c4 pitches · 165 mEasy to bail
Buraz is a four-pitch slab route of 6b on the sector Kamen mudrosti in Tijesno canyon. The only detailed account, from a Slovenian party in November 2024, describes slab climbing on vertical detail with an obligatory 6b and bolts spaced as at a sport crag. Every belay has a ring, and you abseil the route. The rock is compact apart from parts of the first pitch, and there are grassy patches. Pitch grades and the approach to the sector are not published online.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo in Bosnia and Herzegovina Climbing Guide (2nd edition).
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | – | The least interesting pitch, according to the 2024 party; the rock is not fully compact in places. |
| P2 | – | A fine, sustained pitch. |
| P3 | – | A lovely low-angled layback crack, with an awkward finish just below the belay that can be pulled through. |
| P4 | – | A vertical, featured wall to the top, with an excellent view. |
Drive from Banja Luka south along the Vrbas valley towards Ribnik and up to the village of Rekavice above the canyon; the small car park by Bar Vito is about 20 minutes by car from the valley road. Bergwelten advises printing the map or entering the coordinates into your satnav, because the road passes small remote villages. Without a car, take a bus to Banja Luka, then a taxi or local bus to Rekavice.
Not documented for this sector. The Tijesno sectors are reached from above on marked paths (small blue signs and tape) from Rekavice, in about 15 minutes; some include rope handrails. Ask the Extreme Banja Luka club for the way to Kamen mudrosti; the 2024 guidebook may also cover it (not checked).
Loading map
The point is approximate: it marks the area, not the crag.
Coordinates · area: approximate
Point from OpenStreetMap relation 18282665 (Kanjon Tijesno climbing site); the sector Kamen mudrosti is not mapped
Contains the route point.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 44.68354, 17.17547 (area)
Abseil the route from the rings at the belays: three abseils on double ropes of 45 m, about 30 m and 40 m. The 2024 party thought a single rope might also be enough, but with a 45 m abseil that means at least a 90 m rope or extra stops (inferred).
Easy to bail
Abseiling the route is the normal descent and every belay has a ring for it, so you can retreat from any belay. The 2024 party abseiled in three goes on double ropes, the longest 45 m.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
112Emergency
Emergency
There is no national mountain rescue number: the regional Gorska služba spašavanja is called out through cantonal civil protection (121).
Position of the area
44.68354, 17.17547
Marks the area, not the route: give route and pitch.
Say what happened, how many are hurt, and where you are. Checked October 2026 (sourceofficial sources).
14 quickdraws (the 2024 party managed with 12 by back-cleaning some). Double ropes for the abseils. No cams or nuts mentioned.
Bergwelten gives March to June and September to November for the canyon. The aspect of Kamen mudrosti is not documented. A 2025 trip report found the canyon quiet in October.
Forecast · next 7 days
Loading the forecast.
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| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for the grid cell’s height, which may not be the wall’s. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 4 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall
No estimate: the wall's aspect is not recorded for this route.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 5 | 7 | 11 | 16 | 20 | 24 | 26 | 26 | 21 | 17 | 11 | 6 |
| Mean daily low °C | −3 | −3 | 1 | 5 | 10 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 11 | 7 | 3 | −2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 11 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 12 | 11 | 9 | 11 | 10 | 10 | 12 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 317 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Around 6b · about 4 pitches
Italy · Gaeta & Sperlonga
The showpiece of the Montagna Spaccata: four steep, exposed pitches up a knife-edge spur that drops straight into the sea, reached by abseil. Sustained around 6a+ on good holds, with an overhang at 6b to finish.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches120 m
Read the cautionsCommitting
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
The best line of clean rock up the huge left wall of the Sa Gubia amphitheatre, and a Rockfax top-50 route. Four long pitches, sustained at 6a to 6b but never desperate, starting up a big white tufa, with fine positions at the stances. The route stops below the ridge and you abseil.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches135 m
Spain · Sant Llorenç de Montgai & Mont-roig
The classic of the Cilindre, a short Riglos in miniature: four steep, continuous pitches on big pebbles and pockets in sound conglomerate, with a polished crack-corner to start. The 6b second pitch is a long, slightly overhanging pull. Grades are considered generous for the style.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches100 m
Greece · Manikia (Evia)
Four long pitches up the right-hand pillar of the Sentinelle buttress on excellent rock: a pillar, a pocketed wall, an overhanging crack with a stiff exit, and a final pillar. Easy to find, well bolted and finished off with a playful via ferrata descent.
6bVII5.10c6bVII5.10c4 pitches150 m
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.