Peña Predicadera · Sierra de Guara (Peña Predicadera) · Spain
Read the cautionsBail with caveats
A modern 2016 route up the lower right-hand part of Peña Predicadera, joining the upper spur to finish beside Espolón Guanchinfú. Two long, sustained and very closely bolted 6b+ pitches come early and can be pulled through at A0; after a walking link, a fine V+ chimney gives the highlight of the upper half. Excellent conglomerate throughout.
Closely bolted with ringed belays, but the 6b+ pitches need strenuous A0 with some long reaches, and pitch 4 is a 60 m mostly unprotected walking link.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches · 230 mBail with caveats
El Templo de los Sueños climbs the lower right-hand part of Peña Predicadera, then traverses right on a ledge to finish up the upper spur known as the Primer Espolón, topping out on the same block as Espolón Guanchinfú. Its seven pitches and about 230 m hold two long 6b+ pitches near the bottom, sustained but bolted so closely that they can be aided, then easier climbing with a beautiful V+ chimney on pitch 6. Every belay is two bolts with rings. With 5c climbing and confident A0 you can get up it, but pulling through pitch 2 is strenuous: the 2016 party arrived at the belay exhausted. Allow about 4 hours on the route and 6 hours car to car.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5aV+5.7 | 20 m | – | Up the reddish rock, then a delicate traverse right to a comfortable belay. Ropes drag a little. V in the topos. |
| P2 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 40 m | 23 bolts | Back left onto the spur and straight up: sustained and very demanding, but bolted so closely that it goes at A0. Some bolts are hard to reach from the one below, so bring an étrier if you do not climb 6a+. The 2016 report counted 23 bolts; camptocamp says 26 quickdraws if you clip everything. Ropes drag. 6b+/A0. |
| P3 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 40 m | – | Much more climbable than pitch 2, with only a few harder moves. Straight up past about four bolts, then right through a gap to pass a bulge (V+/6a), straight on to a crux of 6b+ over three bolts that are easy to aid, then V to the belay. A 2022 party thought it more like 6b. 6b+/A0. |
| P4 | 3 | 60 m | – | Climb a short slab for about 3 m, then walk along the ledge; where the ground starts to rise, do not go up towards the spur but bear right (a cairn just before) to the first bolt, then traverse horizontally right above vegetation to the belay. About 60 m: a 60 m rope only just reaches, and some parties move together or belay at the first bolt. III in the topos. |
| P5 | 5aV+5.7 | 25 m | – | Keep traversing right while gaining height towards a side chimney in the spur; the arrival at the belay, below the chimney, is delicate. V on camptocamp, V+ in the 2016 report. |
| P6 | 5+VI-/VI5.8+ | 30 m | – | The highlight: a generous chimney full of holds, entered with a thin move from the belay, then follow the bolts to the belay. V+. |
| P7 | 4aIV5.4 | 30 m | – | Easy, an initial scramble then a narrow but easy ridge with good exposure on the left. Belay on two ringed bolts if you plan to abseil, or continue 5 m to a two-bolt belay without rings if walking off; the route ends on a big block shaped like a toad or dragon's head. IV. |
From Huesca take the A-22 towards Barbastro and leave at the Liesa / Ibieca exit. Drive through Ibieca; a few kilometres on, at a junction, turn left and after about 50 m right onto a narrow paved road signed for the Presa de Guara (Calcón dam). After about 3 km, at a small roundabout, take the gravel track signed San Cosme for 2.8 km to the La Tejería car park, where barriers close the tracks. The track is in good condition. The car park has room for about 8 cars; cars parked outside the bays can be fined, it is on private estate land (Finca de San Cosme y San Damián), and estate guards have told people they may not sleep there. On fine weekends it fills up.
About 45 minutes. Follow the Peña Predicadera approach from La Tejería: up the barred track signed Vadiello, keep right, and at a clearing about 8 minutes after the junction with the track from the Vadiello dam leave the San Cosme track for the branch signed Nocito, then soon a secondary track on the left towards the wall. Just past a stream bed, a cairn and red paint mark a short, easy scramble. A little higher, arrows point right to the upper routes (Starlux, Jabalí Errante) and left to the lower routes: go left along a cairned band to the foot of the wall. The route starts in reddish rock.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
La Tejería car park at the end of the San Cosme track (camptocamp access waypoint 1115294; matches the point given by Komando Kroketa)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 765536 (Peña Predicadera)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 42.25561, -0.25178 (crag) · Parking: 42.24139, -0.24280
On foot (30 to 45 minutes to the foot of the route, about 50 minutes to the car): climb down off the summit block and follow the bolts in place and the cairns, then bear left across a narrow gully and keep traversing right (looking out) rather than dropping; ignore cairns that go straight down, which come from Matacrabitos. Descend diagonally right to the stream bed and the approach path. By abseil (about 1 hour): camptocamp says you can abseil the route from its ringed belays; the 2016 report suggests abseiling Espolón Starlux instead, noting that its last abseil is 40 m, or La Boa de Manolo, which is more awkward.
Bail with caveats
Every belay is two bolts with rings and camptocamp gives abseiling the route (about 1 hour) as a normal descent, so retreating from the lower pitches is realistic with two ropes. Pitches 4 and 5 traverse right along a ledge, so above them abseiling back down the line means awkward diagonal abseils; the 2016 report recommends abseiling the neighbouring Espolón Starlux (last abseil 40 m) from the top instead.
24 to 26 quickdraws (26 to clip every bolt on pitch 2), slings for the belays, an étrier or foot sling for the A0 pitches if 6a+ is your limit. Two 60 m ropes to abseil; one 60 m rope is enough to walk off. Helmet.
Faces south: a winter, autumn and spring route, with ascents reported in June, November and December; very hot in summer sun. A November 2022 party climbed it in 40 km/h winds with gusts over 80 km/h and found it cold (4°C at the car). Base about 900 m. Peña Predicadera lies in the Parque Natural de la Sierra y Cañones de Guara. The park's climbing order of 28 December 2015 (sector 28, Predicadera) and the park's 2022 public leaflet both list it as open for climbing all year. Before 2016 it was sometimes closed from January to August for nesting raptors, and the older 2014 park plan and the guara.info site still mention a 1 January to 30 June authorisation period, so check with the park office (espaciosnaturaleshu@aragon.es) if you go in the first half of the year.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1250 m
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| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
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Model forecast for 1250 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 7 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 7 | 8 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 23 | 26 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 10 | 8 |
| Mean daily low °C | −2 | −2 | 1 | 3 | 7 | 11 | 14 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 9 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 11 | 9 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 9 | 8 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1048 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Spain · Sierra de Guara (Peña Predicadera)
A friendly six-pitch line up a conglomerate spur, opened in 1985 and now well bolted throughout. Four pitches of slab and spur at 4a to 4c lead to the two best pitches: a bulge and fine groove at 5b, then a short leaning chimney at 5c that you climb in opposition. Superb grippy rock and wide views over the Vadiello reservoir.
5cVI5.96 pitches175 m
Around 6b+ · about 7 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
A sea-level start reached by abseil, then seven short pitches up the seaward face of Pedra Longa. The third pitch is a wildly exposed traverse above a line of roofs; two easy pitches on rock that needs care lead to a technical 6b and 6b+ finish on grey slab.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches175 m
Turkey · Aladağlar
Often named as the best route in the massif: seven even pitches of 6a to 6b+ that move from delicate slabs and giant flutings through a steep, rough wall to mountain-style ground at the top. The 6b pitches are no harder than the 6a ones, but the bolts are far enough apart to keep you thinking.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches235 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Bolzano & South Tyrol
Steep crack, corner and chimney climbing on porphyry, fully bolted in the middle of a trad crag. Sustained at 6a to 6b with a technical 6b+ first pitch. It stays in the shade until mid-afternoon, which makes it a summer option.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches190 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A recent, closely bolted line on the Mallo Frechín and a good way to get to know Riglos without being frightened. A stiff 6b+ second pitch that many find nearer 6c, then steep, sustained 6a and 6a+ over a succession of bulges on unpolished rock. You can abseil off from the top.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches190 m
Compiled from published sources, last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.