Peña Predicadera · Sierra de Guara (Peña Predicadera) · Spain
A friendly six-pitch line up a conglomerate spur, opened in 1985 and now well bolted throughout. Four pitches of slab and spur at 4a to 4c lead to the two best pitches: a bulge and fine groove at 5b, then a short leaning chimney at 5c that you climb in opposition. Superb grippy rock and wide views over the Vadiello reservoir.
5cVI5.96 pitches · 175 mBail with caveats
Espolón Guanchinfú climbs a spur a few metres left of the Espolón Starlux on Peña Predicadera, in six pitches and about 175 m. The first four pitches are slabs, short walls and an ascending traverse at 4a to 4c; the character changes on pitch 5, where a groove, a small bulge and a fine move into a left-hand channel make it the hardest pitch for many people, and pitch 6 finishes up a short, slightly leaning chimney. It is bolted throughout with parabolts and rigged belays, and recent parties praise the rock, the bolting and the views. Allow about 2 to 2.5 hours on the route and 4 hours car to car.
No topo we can show; see the sources.
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4aIV5.4 | 30 m | 8 bolts | Two slabs split by a ledge, starting on the right bank of the water channel, with a slight traverse onto an overhung terrace and then straight up the spur. There are several possible first pitches here, including a slightly harder variant (V-) on the left; all lead to the same spur. IV in Spanish topos. |
| P2 | 4bIV+5.5 | 30 m | 5 bolts | A wide slab and a short wall separated by easier ground; one move out right above the second bolt. If in doubt at a junction, keep left: the line to the right is Aliana. IV in Spanish topos. |
| P3 | 4bIV+5.5 | 30 m | 5 bolts | Ascending traverse left across the water channel, ignoring the tempting ledge, to a belay well to the left after the gully. Not hard, but the bolts at the start are spaced and you would hit a broad ledge if you fell before clipping the third. Water may run here after rain. IV/IV+ in Spanish topos. |
| P4 | 4cV5.6 | 35 m | 6 bolts | Up the spur: a slab, a step, an easier section, then a short vertical wall with good holds just below the belay, which holds the move of the pitch. IV+ in Spanish topos. |
| P5 | 5bVI-5.8 | 30 m | 9 bolts | Slab, then a wide groove to a small, closely bolted bulge that goes more easily on its right than it looks. Step into the channel on the left (the bolted one); a couple of delicate moves are needed to clip the next bolt, which is a little out of reach, then it eases to the belay. Several parties found this harder than the last pitch. V/V+ in Spanish topos. |
| P6 | 5cVI5.9 | 20 m | 4 bolts | Easy slab to the first bolt, a long step left into the line of the channel, then a short, slightly leaning chimney climbed in opposition, well bolted, with an old burillo bolt as well; a rucksack gets in the way. A block on the left helps you out. Belay on two bolts without rings on the summit block. V+ in Spanish topos; a 60 cm sling as an étrier is an optional help. |
From Huesca take the A-22 towards Barbastro and leave at the Liesa / Ibieca exit. Drive through Ibieca; a few kilometres on, at a junction, turn left and after about 50 m right onto a narrow paved road signed for the Presa de Guara (Calcón dam). After about 3 km, at a small roundabout, take the gravel track signed San Cosme for 2.8 km to the La Tejería car park, where barriers close the tracks. The track is in good condition. The car park has room for about 8 cars; cars parked outside the bays can be fined, it is on private estate land (Finca de San Cosme y San Damián), and estate guards have told people they may not sleep there. On fine weekends it fills up.
About 40 minutes. From La Tejería walk up the barred track ahead; after about 6 minutes you leave the wood and see the Vadiello reservoir. Turn right towards San Cosme y San Damián and follow the level track about 10 minutes to a signpost (Nocito, Ermita Fabana, San Cosme), then take a faint track right past two big holm oaks towards the wall. Where it ends, cross the stream bed and take the path on the left over two small steps with fixed ropes. For this route the shorter path (path 'A' on the Escalando map) leads into the gully: a short exposed traverse with a fixed rope reaches the base of Directa Eccos, and a short climb, also with a fixed rope, brings you to the start of Guanchinfú, a little lower than the Starlux start. The start is marked 'VAR GUANCHINFÚ' on the rock. Water can run down the gully after rain and make the approach awkward.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
La Tejería car park at the end of the San Cosme track (camptocamp access waypoint 1115294; matches the point given by Komando Kroketa)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 765536 (Peña Predicadera)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 42.25561, -0.25178 (crag) · Parking: 42.24139, -0.24280
Walk off, about 1 hour (2023 report). From the top (El Pito) climb down the block to the north with the help of a knotted rope, go up the cairned slabs opposite bearing right, make a wide arc down into a channel and climb a slab with a second knotted rope, then follow the south-west-facing gully down a scree path in zigzags to a large boulder, pass it on the right, and the path leads to the approach track and back to La Tejería. The top part is well cairned, but a 2026 party lost the descent path lower down and ended up in scrub and scree. The belays (two parabolts with rings, except the top one) also allow you to abseil the route.
Bail with caveats
Retreat by abseil should be straightforward from most of the route: the belays are two parabolts with rings, which the 2017 topo says are there so the route can be abseiled, and no pitch is longer than 35 m. The pitch-3 traverse means the line of descent below belay 3 is not straight down, so abseiling from there may need care to reach belay 2.
9 quickdraws, plus slings or cord to link the two belay bolts. A single rope long enough for 35 m pitches; the descent is on foot. Nuts and cams are not needed. Optional 60 cm sling to use as a foot loop on the last pitch. Helmet.
Faces south-east and gets the sun very early, so summer days are very hot: start at dawn or pick a cloudy day. Autumn is the ideal season and recent parties climbed it in April, May, October and November. Base about 900 m, top about 1200 m. The rock dries fast and stays grippy; a 2023 party climbed it in light rain. Strong winds can make the upper pitches unpleasant. Peña Predicadera lies in the Parque Natural de la Sierra y Cañones de Guara. The park's climbing order of 28 December 2015 (sector 28, Predicadera) and the park's 2022 public leaflet both list it as open for climbing all year. Before 2016 it was sometimes closed from January to August for nesting raptors, and the older 2014 park plan and the guara.info site still mention a 1 January to 30 June authorisation period, so check with the park office (espaciosnaturaleshu@aragon.es) if you go in the first half of the year.
Forecast · next 7 days · 1230 m
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| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
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Model forecast for 1230 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 6 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 7 | 8 | 12 | 14 | 18 | 23 | 26 | 26 | 21 | 16 | 10 | 8 |
| Mean daily low °C | −2 | −2 | 1 | 3 | 7 | 11 | 14 | 14 | 10 | 6 | 2 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 9 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 11 | 9 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 9 | 8 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 1048 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
No reports yet.
Spain · Sierra de Guara (Peña Predicadera)
A modern 2016 route up the lower right-hand part of Peña Predicadera, joining the upper spur to finish beside Espolón Guanchinfú. Two long, sustained and very closely bolted 6b+ pitches come early and can be pulled through at A0; after a walking link, a fine V+ chimney gives the highlight of the upper half. Excellent conglomerate throughout.
6b+VII+5.10d7 pitches230 m
Read the cautions
Around 5c · about 6 pitches
Switzerland · Vaud Alps
Six short pitches up the west edge of the pillar on the Dent de Jaman, the limestone tooth above Montreux, with Lake Geneva at your back. Slopers low down, a delicate traverse, then a fine slab and two good corner pitches. Hugely popular, a short walk from a mountain railway halt.
5cVI5.96 pitches120 m
Austria · Zillertal
bergsteigen.com counts it among the best easier multipitch routes in the Zillertal and one of the few true plaisir lines there. Six pitches of featured slabs, steep walls studded with quartz crystals and fine flakes, with very little smooth rock. Three pitches reach UIAA 6-.
5cVI5.96 pitches200 m
Italy · Lecco & Valsassina
A 1979 Ivan Guerini line up the big slab of the second spur: friction climbing on compact limestone with a few steeper steps, a fine third pitch and a corner to finish. Grades are even, around 5a to 5c, and the bolts are far enough apart that slab confidence matters. You abseil off.
5cVI5.96 pitches120 m
Read the cautions
Spain · El Chorro
A friendly six-pitch route that climbs half-way up the Frontales Altas and abseils back down. Most of it is easy, with good rests and some low-angle ground; the crux third pitch takes a neat little arête. It shares its first two short pitches with Blue Line.
5cVI5.96 pitches148 m
Compiled from published sources, last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.